6 Ways to Protect Garden Plants in a Heat Wave

A bunch of green and red tomatoes are growing in a bunch with the bright sun shining down from beyond.

Extreme heat and temperature swings can cause a lot of stress and damage to plants, but thankfully there are many proactive and preventative measures you can take to help! Come learn six ways to protect your garden during a heat wave or hot weather.

This post will explore steps to take right before temperatures climb (like hanging shade cloth), watering best practices, along with tips to help make your plants more tolerant to heat and drought in general. 


What temperature is “too hot” for plants?


Various types of plants have different thresholds of heat tolerance.

Cool-season crops like leafy greens, root veggies or the cabbage family generally prefer temperatures in the 50s and 60s (F). They may temporarily wilt or begin to bolt in temperatures over 75°F, and over 90°F will likely fry them for good.

Meanwhile, summer garden crops like tomatoes, peppers, and beans will thrive in that 75 to 90°F range! That’s their jam. Yet even heat-loving crops may become cranky, less productive, or damaged in excessively hot temperatures.

For example, tomatoes may experience issues with flower drop or fruit development when daytime temperatures are regularly over 95°F, especially combined with high humidity and sustained warm temperatures overnight. Similarly, zucchini and squash slow production when it’s over 85°F for an extended period of time. 

Young plants are more prone to heat stress and damage than mature ones. Their tender nature and small, shallow root systems makes them far less heat-hardy. So, avoid transplanting new seedlings outdoors right before or during a heat wave, and move those in containers into the shade or indoors.


A two image photo collage, the first image is a red tomato attached to a cluster of fruit on a tomato plant has signs of sunburn and damage on half the fruit. It is blistered and wrinkled with a large, round, light in color discoloration amongst the red fruit. The second image is a green bell pepper that is still attached to the plant, half of the fruit has turned white and papery due to sunburn, leaving only small amounts of green on the outer edges of the fruit. Protect your plants from a garden heat wave so your fruit won't succumb to sunburn.
The effects of strong sun: sunburned tomatoes and bell peppers. Providing shade and protecting fruit with foliage can help prevent this. Photo courtesy of Utah State University

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Quick fixes versus long-term adaptations to heat


Thankfully, the issues with pollination, production, or wilting that some plants experience during short-lived heat waves usually results in only a temporary setback. The plants should bounce back once the weather cools off and returns to normal. 

On the other hand, hot-climate gardeners need to implement longer-term solutions to combat the typical prolonged heat. For instance, folks living in Arizona, the deep South, Las Vegas, or Hawaii may adjust their garden seasons and avoid growing tomatoes or squash during the hottest summer months altogether, and grow them during the spring and fall seasons instead.

Other long-term adaptations include careful selection of plant varieties, planting certain crops in partial shade, using in-ground beds rather than containers (which more easily dry out  and succumb to temperature swings) or erecting shade structures that will stay up for several months. 


A raised garden bed sitting on a hardscape of gravel contains many types of herbs growing from parsley to sage. It is affixed with three black stakes on each sides of the length of the bed, a black piece of shade cloth is attached to the top of the stakes to create a lean-to of sorts to protect the plants from sunburn.
Shade cloth is a fantastic season extender to grow heat-sensitive and tender plants into late spring and summer, and also comes in handy during heat waves!


6 Ways to Protect Plants During a Heat Wave


Wondering when to act? A good rule of thumb is that if it’s suddenly going to be 10 to 15+ degrees warmer than it has been and usually is, or if the weather station issues an “excessive heat warning” for your area. It may not be reasonable or necessary to apply every single protective measure listed, so pick and choose as you see fit!


1) Provide Shade


Shade helps soil stay cooler, retain moisture better, and protects plants from heat stress. Even more, shade can prevent sun scalding or sunburning of fruit (which leads to rotting) – commonly seen as whitish yellow patches on tomatoes or peppers. Blocking the hottest late afternoon sun is particularly important.

In very hot climates, consider planting in a location that receive natural partial shade (e.g. from a nearby tree or structure), especially for sensitive plants. Or, you can erect shade covers as needed over individual beds or over a larger garden space.

I recommend using specialized garden shade cloth since it reduces the temperature and intensity of the sun, but still allows good airflow and some UV rays through – vital for plant growth. In my garden, I drape and secure the shade cloth over wire hoops though you can also use stakes, trellises, poles, or other supports.

In a pinch, you can also shelter plants with large beach or patio umbrellas, bed sheets, or other overhead canopies. However, it’s best to only leave them up for a day or two if they completely block the sun. Also consider moving potted plants into shadier locations when necessary.


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PRO TIP: Garden shade cloth comes in various sizes and ratings. For most vegetable gardens, 40% to 50% shade cloth is ideal, which adequately protects the plants but still allows enough sunlight through for essential photosynthesis.

Several wooden raised garden beds with gravel pathways between and large oak trees in the distance. The beds all have black shade cloth material covers on top, supported in a arch shape by wire hoops. There are small lettuce plants and other cool season crops below the shade cloth, shielded from the sun.
An example from our garden: using shade cloth on wire hoops over individual beds of leafy greens and young brassicas during a short heat wave. Learn more about using hoops and row covers here – which also covers tips for frost cloth and insect netting for pests.
Rather than covering each bed, this gardener hung a larger shade cloth canopy over their entire garden – ideal for all season use. Image and shade cloth via Amazon


2) Water Deeply (all season long) 


Start now! Regularly watering deeply sets your plants up for success all season long.

Plants thrive with a consistent watering schedule, and prefer deep but infrequent water (vs watering a little bit every day.) The exact time and duration will vary depending on your climate, but the goal is to water slowly and deep, down into their root zone and beyond, and then back off for a few days to let them breathe (but not dry out completely).

If you only water shallowly, plant roots stay shallow too – making them very vulnerable to heat and dry spells. Yet watering deeply encourages deeper roots, larger plants, and increased resistance to stress like drought, wind, and temperature swings. Deeply damp soil maintains more steady temperatures and is less likely to dry out during a heat wave.

I love drip irrigation because it saves me a ton of time, and provides my garden the type of water it loves. Before we had automatic drip, I used these drinking water grade soaker hoses in our beds so I could offer similar long, deep water without having to stand there with a hose.


A 4x8 foot wood raised garden bed full of small plant seedlings, with four rows of black irrigation tubing running between the plants down the length of the garden bed. The soil appears to be moist and rich.
Drip irrigation makes watering a breeze! We usually run ours for about an hour twice per week, but sometimes longer or more often during a heat wave.


3) Water Before Heat (but resist the urge to overwater) 


Give your garden a good deep drink of water either the evening or morning before a heat wave is due to hit. Providing water well before the peak heat of the day will give them ample time to soak up the water, and also keep you out of the sun too!

However, resist the urge to excessively water all day long. Plants may wilt under high heat and strong sun, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they need more water (nor is more water always better). For instance, my zucchini plants can look sad and limp in the middle of a warm afternoon – but always perk back up that night! If they still look droopy in the morning, then they may be thirsty.

When in doubt, check your soil moisture with a moisture meter (or by probing an inch or two below the soil surface with your finger) before watering more. If it feels moist or if you just watered in the last day or two, it probably doesn’t need more water yet. 


A large squash plant is succumbing to the heat of the day with all of its leaves hanging limp. The surrounding area is very green and grassy, you can almost feel the heat and humidity by the image alone.
Wilting squash plants on a hot summer day. Image from Peaceful Valley (one of the many places we love to buy seeds), where they do a great job at explaining why this doesn’t always mean plants need more water!


4) Don’t Skip the Mulch!


Mulching is always a fantastic idea (a must, if you ask me!) but is especially important to protect plants in heat waves. Did you know that plants are more sensitive to temperature swings in their root zone and soil than they are by ambient air temperatures?

Mulch provides a protective layer for the soil and roots – buffering against temperature extremes and promoting more steady soil temperatures overall. It also reduces water evaporation and runoff, protects the soil microbiome, prevents soil from drying out, and reduces your need for water.

Apply about 2 inches of organic mulch material (even more for light mulch like straw) on the soil surface around the base of plants or over the whole garden bed. Examples of organic mulch include: straw, small bark or wood chips, shredded leaves, pine needles, and aged compost (my favorite). Some gardeners use a layer of newspaper, cardboard, or plastic sheeting.


RELATED: See this article to read more about the pros and cons of 8 different types of garden mulch, or this guide on mulching best practices. 

A close up of a pitchfork piling up a thick layer of yellow straw mulch around the base of two medium size tomato plants, about 2 feet tall and bushy.


5) Avoid Wetting Plant Leaves 


Avoid overhead watering and wetting your plant leaves during hot sunny conditions. You know how humans can still get a decent sunburn (if not worse) in foggy conditions? Moisture amplifies the sun like a magnifying glass! Similarly, lingering water droplets on plant leaves in direct sunlight can magnify the intensity and heat of the sun, and increase the chance of sunburn or scorching the leaves.

As a best practice, I always try to water the soil around the base of the plant rather than the plant itself, but especially so during heat waves. 


A watering can that isn't visible is watering the soil below the canopy of collard greens so the water isn't getting on the plant's leaves. The water resembles that of a rain shower spray. Protect your plants from a garden heat wave by watering your soil, not your plants.
Water your soil, not your plants!


6) Promote Overall Plant Health


The final way to help your garden survive a heat wave is to grow the healthiest plants possible! This is something you can work on all season long. 

Stressed or compromised plants are more sensitive to the heat, just as older folks or those with health issues may be. (No judgement – I get sick in the heat too!) Also just like humans, plants have immune systems that help them respond and rebound to various environmental stressors including pests, disease, drought, frost, heat, toxicity, and more. 

In my garden, I encourage the most robust and hardy plants possible with organic inputs such as worm castings, mycorrhizae, well-aged compost and/or homemade compost tea. All of these goodies feed the living soil food web, enable plants to better utilize nutrients, and improves their resilience to pest pressure, heat, and more. 


DeannaCat is crouching in between a couple raised garden beds, she is tossing up a large radish with one hand as she stares at it while it is suspended in air. There are a few more of the harvest daikon radishes laying on a nearby garden bed that contains four large growing cabbages. The raised beds in the background contain cauliflower and brussels sprouts plants.
Cheers to happy, healthy, productive gardens – and the gardeners that tend them!


And that is how to protect plants during a heat wave.


Alright friends, I hope this leaves you with plenty of ideas and methods to help your garden survive the next heat wave that rolls in! As you can see, there are several things you can do now and always in preparation – and a few tools or materials you may want to keep on hand too. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Or, if there are any great ideas that I forgot to mention. Stay cool and comfortable out there!


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DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

8 Comments

  • Kimberly Schreiner

    I have learned SO much from you over the last few years.
    Thank you for your well written, concise instructions!

  • Cara

    Hi Guys,

    Quick question, please: What kinds of hoops do you use with shade cloth for 4′ wide beds?

    Many Thanks and Stay Cool!

    Cara in Pasadena

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Cara, these super hoops plus base extenders work great for us in 4 foot wide beds, if you want to be able to cover taller plants like full grown tomatoes, squash, eggplant etc., you may need the hi rise hoops. We typically use 3 hoops per 8 foot long bed so it doesn’t sag in the middle. Hope that helps and reach out if you have any other questions.

  • JoyceGoodge

    I put my vegetables in pots and the get morning sun and afternoon shade up against my trailer. I water every evening. So far so good. They really don’t like the intense heat wave.

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