How to Grow Fig Trees: The Ultimate Step-by-Step Guide
Sweet, ripe, juicy homegrown figs put dry, bland grocery store figs to shame! Thankfully, fig trees are quite easy to grow at home. They’re low maintenance, attract few pests, and are easy to prune or grow in containers – perfect for gardens of all shapes and sizes. In addition to delicious fruit, they provide beautiful foliage for your landscape.
Come learn my top tips to successfully grow fig trees – from how to choose the best variety for your climate through how to plant, prune, fertilize, and harvest figs. I’ve also included a list of ways to prepare and eat figs at the end.
I’ve planted over a dozen fig trees over the years. They’re one of my favorite fruits to grow and eat!
Fig Tree Growing Requirements
- Growing Zones: Fig trees grow best in USDA hardiness zones 7 or 8-12, though some extra-hardy varieties like ‘Chicago Hardy’ can survive in zone 6. Lower zone gardeners can grow cold-hardy figs in containers and move them to a protected location over winter, such as a garage, shed, basement, or even indoors. Most established fig trees can survive temperatures down to 15 to 20 degrees F.
- Size and Structure: Fig trees grow 10 to 30 feet tall and up to 20 feet wide, depending on variety and pruning. Fig trees are deciduous, meaning they naturally lose their leaves in the winter and grow fresh ones each spring.
- Sun: Full sun to partial shade. Like most fruit trees, fig trees can tolerate some shade but will fruit more prolifically when provided at least 7 hours of direct sun.
- Soil: Grow fig trees in well-draining soil amended with ample organic matter (i.e. compost). They will also tolerate moderately clay soils, but not a lot of standing water. Figs prefer slightly acidic soil conditions (pH of 5.5 to 6.5) though I never adjust our soil pH; I’ve found they aren’t too picky.
- Water: Moderate water. Most varieties are drought-tolerant once established, though they will produce better quality fruit with continued moderate water.
- Fruiting Season: Depends on variety; often late summer. I like to plant a combination of early, mid, and late-season bearing varieties so I can harvest fruit over a longer period – rather than being overwhelmed with too many at once!
- Cross Pollination: Fig trees are self-fertile, meaning you don’t need a second fig tree nearby in order to bear fruit.

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Getting Started: Seeds, Nursery Trees, or Cuttings
The best and most reliable way to grow fig trees is from cuttings that are taken from a female, fruit-bearing tree. While it’s technically “possible” to grow fig trees from seed, the resulting tree may not breed true or reliably bear decent fruit. Young fig trees sold at garden centers are propagated from cuttings and/or grafted rootstock.
I prefer to get a jump start and purchase decent-size trees from the local nursery in 5 gallon pots since fig trees can already take several years to bear fruit. However, you can also propagate your own cuttings from a friend’s tree and grow your own fig tree that way too.

Fig Tree Varieties
Black Mission and Brown Turkey are two very well-known types of figs, but there are dozens of interesting and delicious fig tree varieties to choose from. Come explore my detailed list of 18 fantastic fig tree varieties to grow!
It’s important to select a fig tree variety that is well-suited for your climate, space, and taste buds. Read descriptions before making a purchase. I always suggest checking locally-owned nurseries first; they should carry varieties that grow well in your area.
Climate
Most fig tree varieties grow best in hardiness zones 8 through 11 – where summers are long and hot and winters are mild. However, some fig tree varieties can survive in much colder climates too! For instance, the ‘Chicago Hardy’ fig grows in zone 6. Many others are adapted down to zone 7, especially when planted in a protected location. Celeste and Brown Turkey are two other popular fig varieties well-suited for cold climates.
Here on the Central Coast of California, I always choose figs that thrive in more temperate conditions since we have moderately cool, foggy summers. Desert King or Corky’s Honey Delight are two of my favorites. Other fig varieties prefer high heat, such as Violette de Bordeaux or Kadota.
Fig Tree Size
Some fig trees are available as dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties that will reach a maximum height of 10 to 15 feet, perfect for smaller gardens, tidy orchards, or containers. I’ve grown many semi-dwarf varieties that are still less than 6 feet tall, even many years after planting.
Other fig trees grow quite large, reaching up to 30 feet tall. Fig trees are bushy in nature and can grow a canopy as wide as the tree is tall.
However, figs are easy to train and prune to maintain a smaller size. Keeping your fig trees shorter also makes harvesting fruit much easier.

Fruit Characteristics
Now, let’s talk about the fruit itself! I’ve never crossed a fresh fig that I didn’t like, but some fig tree varieties bear sweeter, larger, or more unique fruit than others. Eye-catching striped ‘Penache Tiger’ figs, massive tennis ball-like ‘Yellow Longneck’ figs, extra-sweet ‘Honey’ varieties… the list goes on!
I personally love to grow green-skinned figs, also referred to as “white figs”. Green or white fig varieties stay green even once they’re fully ripe, turning only lighter green or yellow-green. Because of this, wild birds don’t tend to eat them! Unlike other figs that send a visual cue (hey look at me, I’m sweet!) by turning dark purple, red, or black as they ripen.

What are Breba Figs?
Breba figs are those that grow on last year’s wood growth, as opposed to ‘main crop’ figs that grow on the current year’s new branch growth. Some fig varieties produce an exceptionally large and delicious breba crop, such as Desert King. Others are known for their main crop. Most figs produce some of both, so you could get a couple crops of figs per season!
Overwintering as buds on the tree, breba figs develop and ripen earlier than the main crop, typically in late spring to early summer rather than late summer to fall. If you find your tree tends to produce a weak (or not tasty) breba crop, you can remove those fruits early so the tree can focus it’s energy on the main crop instead.

Planting Tips
To plant a fig tree, follow general tree-planting best practices:
- Choose a planting location that receives full sun and good drainage. In zones 8 and lower, consider a spot that offers some added protection in the winter such as near a fence or house.
- Space fig trees anywhere from 6 to 15 feet from other trees, depending on the variety, landscape, and planned intensity of pruning.
- Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the existing root ball or pot, up to 2 to 3 times wider but not much deeper.
- Plant the tree so the top of the root ball and base of the trunk are level with the surrounding ground surface. Do not bury the trunk.
- It’s okay to amend the planting hole with quality potting soil, worm castings, and/or well-aged compost, but otherwise do not fertilize at the time of planting.
- Optional: I like to sprinkle granular mycorrhizae on the root ball, or water with a soluble mycorrhizae after planting. Mycorrhizae helps reduce transplant shock, encourage strong root development, deter root knot nematodes and other pests, and boost overall tree health.
- Water the tree thoroughly after planting.
- Add a layer of mulch on top, but leaving a clear mulch-free ring several inches around the trunk.
If you have gophers, I highly suggest planting your fig tree in a gopher cage to protect it from damage. Trust me. I learned the hard way that gophers find fig trees absolutely irresistible. They will chew and eat the roots as well as around the base of the trunk. You can either buy large pre-made gopher baskets, or make your own like we do! Learn more about making and installing gopher baskets for trees here.

Growing Figs in Containers
It’s possible to grow fig trees in large pots on containers, though they admittedly will grow best in the ground if possible. I’ve planted many fig trees in half wine barrel planters for many years. Growing figs in containers is an especially desirable option for cold-climates (zone 6 and lower) where it’s best to move fig trees to a protected location for winter.
Bear in mind that the size of the pot will directly limit the growth and production of trees (e.g. smaller pot = smaller tree). A dwarf or semi-dwarf fig tree variety will do best in a pot. Potted figs will need to be fertilized more often; see fertilizing notes below.

Fertilizing Fig Trees
Fig trees are not typically heavy feeders, especially if they’re planted in decent soil from the start. Plan to fertilize in-ground fig trees only once or twice per year (spring and possibly fall) with an organic slow-release fruit tree fertilizer like this one. I also feed our fig trees with homemade compost tea a couple times per year.
Fig trees growing in containers will need more frequent fertilizer than those planted in the ground, requiring up to quarterly feeding. I like to feed potted figs with a slow-release granular organic fertilizer by dusting it over the soil surface, lightly scratch it in, and then water thoroughly. Follow the amounts listed in the product instructions.
Pruning Fig Trees
Figs grow well with little pruning, though it can help maintain a more tidy and compact tree. Pruning can also encourage new growth, branching, and more fruit.
At the time of transplanting, I typically prune the top of young fig trees if they’re growing as a single vertical trunk. Topping straight “whips” young will encourage branching and a more bushy structure – perfect to easily harvest fruit. See the photos below for further instruction. Unpruned whips will eventually branch too, but not as soon or vigorously as when topped.
Thereafter, prune fig trees during the dormant season, once they’ve lost their leaves in late fall or winter. Use clean and sanitized pruning shears or loppers to remove weak, diseased, dead, or otherwise undesirable branches from the tree. Removing (or topping) vertical branches near the center of the tree will create a more open and wide canopy, and increased growth of lateral fruiting branches. Pruning back the main branches by one quarter to a third each year will promote continued branching.
Last but not least, remove any branches that spring up from the very base of the tree by the soil. These undesirable growths are called “suckers” because they draw energy and nutrients away from the main tree.

Diagram courtesy of Deep Green Permaculture


Winter Protection
In climates where temperatures dip below 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time, plan to protect your fig tree during winter.
Potted fig trees should be brought inside or into a garage, shed, or other place that is sheltered from freezing conditions. In-ground trees can be protected with frost cloth or burlap if needed. A good deep layer of mulch around the base of the tree will help to insulate the soil and roots to reduce hard frost damage.
Fig Tree Pests or Disease
Thankfully, few pests or diseases bother fig trees. The most common fig tree pests we contend with are gophers (who eat the roots) and birds (who eat the fruit). Planting your fig tree in a gopher basket will protect them from gnawing gopher damage. As previously discussed, green or white-skin fig varieties are far less attractive to birds in my experience!
Another solution to stop birds (or squirrels) from eating your figs is to place reusable mesh bags like these over each fig as it becomes ripe. While tedious, it’s effective! You could also drape the entire tree with a fine mesh insect netting, but I don’t recommend using traditional “bird netting” as wildlife easily gets tangled in it.
Other potential fig tree pests or disease include thrips, root knot nematodes, rust, and leaf spot.

How long does it take for a fig tree to bear fruit?
Fig trees typically take about 3 to 5 years to start producing quality fruit. During the first few years, don’t be dismayed if your crop is dismal. Young fig trees may develop small, dry fruit on their branches for a couple years before their production really picks up. Every year will be better than the last!
Eventually, if your tree is producing a huge amount of figs, you can thin (remove) some of the smaller fruit to encourage larger, juicier figs if needed. Insufficient water and/or nutrients can lead to less than ideal fruit production.

Harvesting Tips
- As figs mature, they will become increasingly large in size and change color from dark green to whatever color is expected for that particular variety, such as dark purple, yellow-green, or reddish brown.
- Ripe figs become increasingly thin-skinned, soft, and droop on the branch. Very ripe figs may split or drip honey-like juices from the bottom end. The stem will also detach from the tree more easily.
- Gently squeeze the fruit to check for softness. Harvest when they’re supple to the touch, but before they get mushy.
- To harvest, gently pull up on the fig so the stem detaches from the branch. Don’t pull down, and avoid tearing or squishing the fruit.
- If harvested too early, underripe figs will not continue to ripen on the counter as other fruit might. Therefore, it’s best to harvest figs only when they’re fully ripe (or darn close to it) if possible.
- After harvest, figs have very short shelf life. They can be stored at room temperature for a day or two, but otherwise figs should be refrigerated. Store very soft or overripe fruit in the refrigerator right away.



What do fresh figs taste like?
Fresh figs have a unique sweet flavor – like a spectacular blend of honey, fruit syrup, and ripe berries. I just read this question out loud and Aaron replied “like a party in your mouth”! Lol. Figs are one of our favorite fruits to grow for a reason. If you’ve never had a fig right from the tree, you’re in for a real treat once you grow you own!
Ways to Eat or Preserve Fresh Figs
90% of the time, we simply enjoy our figs fresh – eating them whole like a pear or plum. I also like to cut them up to serve in breakfast with plain yogurt, nuts, seeds, and granola. Figs are amazing on top of sourdough pancakes, or over vanilla coconut ice cream.
Tree-ripened figs are plenty sweet on their own. They don’t require additional sugar or a drizzle of honey as I see many folks do. However, if you’re looking for an extra-special treat, or if you have more fresh figs than you can eat plain, please enjoy these tantalizing ways to eat figs:
- Oven-roasted figs with cheese, honey, nuts, and/or aged balsamic vinegar. Cut the figs in half, stuff or top them with a tangy rich cheese (such as goat cheese or blue cheese), drizzle with honey or thick sweet balsamic vinegar, sprinkle walnut or pecan pieces on top. Roast in the oven on 375°F until slightly softened, warm and juicy. Balsamic-honey marinated figs are also excellent grilled!
- Serve as a fresh fig bruschetta. Top crackers or crusty bread with a soft spreadable cheese like ricotta, mascarpone, or goat cheese. Then add chopped figs, chopped pecans, a drizzle of honey or reduced balsamic vinegar, and a sprinkle of fresh herbs like thyme or rosemary.
- Use fresh figs as a topping on salads, pizza, or even sourdough focaccia. In addition to tangy cheese, herbs, and balsamic, figs pair exceptionally well with caramelized onions.
- Turn your harvest into fig jam or fig compote.
- Dehydrate into homegrown dried figs. I can’t recommend our favorite Excalibur food dehydrators highly enough!
- Make chocolate-covered figs. Dip fresh figs in melted chocolate and then pop them into the refrigerator to harden.
- Freeze figs to enjoy later on desserts, in smoothies, transform into spreads, and more
- Use fresh figs as the filling for a sweet baked cobbler, crumble, tart, galette, or pie.
- Make homemade fig newtons or fig bars. Try these vegan gluten-free oatmeal fig bars!

And that sums up how to grow fig trees!
If all that doesn’t get you excited to grow figs, I don’t know what will! Even more, I hope this article helps you feel prepared and confident to plant, grow, care for, harvest, and enjoy homegrown figs. Please let me know if you have any lingering questions in the comments below. Do you grow fig trees too? I’d love to hear what your favorite varieties are and why! Last but not least, please feel free to pin or share this article if you found the information you learned to be useful. Thank you so much for tuning in. Enjoy those figs!
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38 Comments
Ima
One of your outfits is Biblically appropriate for a fig tree. 😉
Stumpy
My Dad’s grandfather grew fig trees in Chicago after immigrating from Italy, during the frigid Chicago winters he would literally push the tree over, stake the branches to the ground and insulate it with blankets. My Dad currently lives on the Central Coast and when I found out he was poaching Mission figs from over the fneighbors fence I had to help him. I propagate cuttings every winter and have many variaties for my long hot Sacramento climate, but was unsure what would work for him in his cool coastal region. Thanks to you two, I bought some Desert King cuttings and he now has a happy two year old cutting in a pot. In a few years it’ll go in ground, he already had a spot picked out. I showed him your beautiful Desert King pictures with the oozing jam and he got real excited!
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Thanks for sharing that story Stumpy and hopefully your dad enjoys his fig tree! Since we moved to our new property we had to leave our old Desert King tree but have another one growing on our new property, it’s only two feet tall or so, though it should have a few nice figs for its Breba crop. We also really like the Corky’s Honey Delight if your dad has anymore room to spare in his yard, thanks again and have fun growing!
Mariangela
I planted 2 different fig trees a few years ago they’ve been very green and healthy but NO FIGS!!! One is a dwarf variety the other Mission Fig. They’ve been pruned etc and I saw a couple of small Breba? maybe figs last year but neither has produced fruit.
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Hi Mariangela, what size pots were your figs in when you planted them? We have one fig tree variety we planted a couple of years ago and it has still yet to produce fruit, I would just give them time and they may/should produce fruit for your soon, especially so if the trees look healthy. Hope that helps and hopefully they set fruit for you soon for a main crop harvest.
Robert Wright
About six years ago, we planted a Desert King fig tree about ten feet from our house. Since then, I’ve learned that the roots will often spread quite a distance from the tree and that they can cause damage to foundations and septic drainfields. Can you share more information about this risk? If we cut the tree down, should be try to excavate to remove the entire root system? (yikes!).
Thank you!
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Hi Robert, it seems as if you planted the tree the minimum recommended distance from your house so i am not sure I would be too concerned about the roots damaging the foundation or structure of your house, you can find an expert response to this question from the National Institute of Food and Agriculture here which includes the recommended distance to leach fields of 25 feet (not sure how close yours is?). I have seen much larger trees (not necessarily fig trees but many with just as extensive roots) planted even closer to houses so I wouldn’t imagine removing the tree would be necessary, you can also limit the trees roots by keeping the tree pruned to a more manageable size. Hope that helps and reach out if you have any other questions.
Diane
I just received this article in the latest newsletter from you. Thank you for the information. I live in Ojai, California and we have the perfect climate for figs. I have two trees and they are very prolific. Even more so since the recent rains this winter and spring! My biggest problem is racoons. They climb the tree and eat them off the stems, I can have as many as 6 coons in one dwarf tree. My solution to help thwart these critters is I have wrapped plastic tree bands around them. The bands are about 24-30″ wide and I just wrap it around the trunk about 3 feet up and attach with zip ties. I love your ideas of what to do with the crop, which I can never get rid of. I make homemade fig newtons, jam and give to friends. These new ideas will help me with this years crop. Love your newsletters!
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Hi Diane, that is a great idea to help with the raccoons, thankfully we haven’t had issues with them eating our figs just yet, six raccoons in one dwarf fig tree is quite a picture to imagine! Good luck with your figs this year and hopefully you have a bountiful harvest!
Geo Lambert
Very well written article – thanks. Being in CA you needn’t be concerned about microclimates, but for those of us in Z 7 and north, it can make a huge difference. Wind reduction and thermal release from a building makes a huge difference, as well as thermal storage from pavement, asphalt and walls. Here’s an anecdote some might enjoy. Back in the day before computers, I saw a TV show (think it was Paul James the Gardener Guy on HGTV) that featured someone in Great Lakes region who had one mature fig tree. In the fall he pruned off the limbs and root pruned 3 sides. Next he dug a trench wide enough for the tree and I think about 3′ (or more) deep. Using the 4th side of remaining roots as a hinge, he pushed the trunk into the trench, backfilled the soil to bury the trunk. Next I believe was a plastic tarp on top, then any remaining soil, then I believe it was bales of hay (or other insulation), topped by another tarp and weights to stalilize the tarp. Obviously the whole process needed to be reversed in spring. Apparently in the winter chill there was no damage to buried bark, and there was enough summer to yield an adequate crop. Now there was a guy who loved his figs. Just imagine his pleasure when they ripened enough to eat! Probably had a party like those do when their night blooming cereus blooms.
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Thanks for sharing Geo, we absolutely have microclimates here, our previous property that was less than 6 miles away from our current one didn’t get nearly as cold during the winter due to being closer to the ocean as well as being nestled amongst many other houses and streets which seemed to keep things more temperate. Thanks for reading and let us know if and when you decide to plant a fig tree.
Willow
I live in the Southeast US, zone 7. Would it be better to plant a fig tree in the late-winter/early spring, or in the fall? I read this article, the “18 varieties” article, and the tree planting article, but I still don’t know…
Help please?
I am so very thankful for you two and all the articles & videos you make for us!!!
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Hi Willow, I would plant it in early spring once the chance of frost has passed, giving your newly planted tree a bit of time to grow before it goes dormant once winter starts. Hope that helps and enjoy!
Nadia
Hello! I have just bought two Ronde de Bordeaux fig trees. I have wine barrel planters, would the trees do better if I planted one in each planter or both in one planter? Thank you!
Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)
Hello Nadia, give each tree its own designated barrel as they won’t have to compete for root space with each other. Good luck!