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Cannabis,  Compost & Soil Health

How to Make Compost Tea to Fertilize Your Garden (Aerated)

Last Updated on May 18, 2024

Want your plants to grow bigger and better than ever before? Come learn how to make your own compost tea in this step-by-step tutorial. This guide covers the benefits of using aerated compost tea (as opposed to non-aerated), the required supplies, and various ways to use it in your garden. Video included!

When people ask how our garden looks so healthy, my usual reply is: “compost tea!” We feed our plants and fruit trees with aerated compost tea several times per year. Actively aerated compost tea, also known as AACT, is a biologically-active, nutrient-rich, mild-but-strong natural fertilizer.


RELATED: Want to learn more about composting at home? Learn how to set up a simple DIY worm compost bin here, or how to build a 3-bay compost bin here. I also show you how to harvest worm castings from a worm bin in this guide.


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What is Compost Tea?


Compost tea is a natural liquid fertilizer that is made by steeping compost in water, with or without the addition of air. You can make compost tea with worm castings or other high-quality compost. The purpose is to extract beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients, and then provide them to plants in a form that they can readily uptake and utilize.

Compost tea is full of beneficial microbes including bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes, all of which have an important role in soil health. Using aerated compost tea in your garden is a great way to enhance the soil food web – the best way to grow big healthy plants!


“Chemical-based pesticides, fumigants, herbicides and some synthetic fertilizers kill a range of the beneficial micro-organisms that encourage plant growth. On the other hand, compost teas improve the life in the soil and on plant surfaces. High quality compost tea will treat the leaf surface and soil with beneficial micro-organisms instead of destroying them.”

Soil Food Web Institute
A diagram by Heidelberg Farms showing what the Soil Food Web looks like below ground. There are tree roots with compost and micro arthropods on the soil surface, with bacteria and fungi, mycorrhizae, and nematodes and protozoa below the soil surface, in and around the tree roots.
Image via Pinterest


Why Aerate Compost Tea?


Aerating compost tea makes it exceptionally rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes, while reducing the risk of potentially harmful pathogens.

Historically, gardeners and farmers have made a passive or non-aerated compost tea by soaking a sack of compost in water for an extended period of time, often up to two weeks. This passive brewing of non-aerated compost tea (NCT) has been occurring for centuries.

In more recent years, modern agriculturalists have began to brew super-charged compost tea in a much shorter duration of time, by introducing oxygen, food, and additional nutrients (ACT). By introducing air and a food source for the beneficial microbes, their populations within the tea increases by the thousands.


“Aerobic organisms are the most beneficial as they promote the processes that a plant needs in order to grow without stress and with a greater resistance to disease. To enhance this community of beneficials, the compost tea must remain aerobic. Anaerobic conditions during brewing can result in the growth of some quite detrimental microbes* and also produce some very detrimental metabolites. It is best to avoid extremely low oxygen concentrations during brewing.”

Soil Food Web Institute


*The reference to detrimental microbes” above includes the potential development of human disease-causing organisms. It is only in anaerobic or low-oxygen conditions that harmful human pathogens can outcompete beneficial microbes and flourish.


Two hands cup rich fluffy worm castings compost. In the background are raised garden beds and chickens roaming.
Worm casting. Another awesome thing about making aerated compost tea is that the worms can survive the brewing process! If worms were otherwise submerged in water for days, they would drown and die. While we try to screen our castings well and not bring worms with us, some small ones and their egg cocoons are usually present. They breathe through their skin, so the air in the tea keeps them alive.


What are the Benefits of Using Compost Tea?


  • Compost tea enhances the soils ability to retain nutrients. The nutrients in the soil will runoff and be depleted less quickly. Therefore, there is less need to use other fertilizers.

  • An enriched population of beneficial microbes, introduced via compost tea, can increase the bioavailability of nutrients to plants. They break down organic matter and free up minerals. This means the plants can uptake nutrients from the soil more readily.

  • A healthy soil food web can buffer soil and plants against pollution. For example, compost-rich soil is excellent at reducing the impacts, uptake, and concentration of pathogens, contaminants, chemicals, and heavy metals that may be introduced or present in soil.

  • Compost tea can help improve the soils moisture retention properties. This prevents stress to plants by maintaining a more evenly moist soil, and reduces the need for more frequent watering.

  • Plants fed compost tea are reported to not only grow stronger, but also have a boosted immune system and improved ability to resist disease.

  • Likewise, it increases a plants ability to tolerate and rebound from stress such as drought or pests.


Our garden. No chemical fertilizers needed here!


Compost Tea versus Worm Bin Leachate


Many folks confuse worm bin runoff or “worm juice” with compost tea, but it’s important to note that they’re quite different! The liquid or runoff that can be collected from the bottom of an overly wet worm compost bin is leachate, and it’s anaerobic. It isn’t nearly as rich in beneficial microbes, and may even contain negative bacteria and pathogens.

As you’ll see in our tutorial on How to Make Worm Compost Bin, we don’t add drainage holes to the bottom of our tote-style worm bins. Proper feeding and maintenance keeps the bin at the ideal moisture level, eliminating both smell and runoff.

A table full of compost tea supplies, on the patio garden outdoor table. Raised garden beds with lush green plants are in the background. On the table - Two twisted PVC bubble snakes that fit inside a 5 gallon bucket. A small plastic tote of freshly harvested worm castings next to mesh paint strainer bags, and an air pump - some of the supplies used in brewing compost tea.


Supplies Needed to Make Aerated Compost Tea



1) Compost


The quality and nutrient content of your starting compost directly dictates the quality of your aerated tea. Whatever is in that compost is going to be amplified, so it’s important to start with good stuff! A variety of compost types can be used to make compost tea, though they may provide a slightly different end product.


“Research suggests that carbon-rich feedstocks (e.g. dry leaves, sawdust, wood chips, shredded newspaper), produce a compost with a higher fungal content. Nitrogen-rich feedstock (hay weeds, coffee grounds, herbaceous material and manures) produce compost with higher bacterial content. Vermicompost is used as an ingredient in many compost tea recipes. This compost is typically the highest in available nutrients.”

San Francisco Department of Environment


We usually make compost tea with homemade worm castings. Or, you can buy finished worm castings at your local garden center or buy some online. No matter what you choose to use, ensure that it is well-aged, balanced, and properly decomposed. For example, do not use fresh animal manures, or compost that is anaerobic and stinks like a landfill.


A small plastic tote of freshly harvested worm castings sit on a table next to mesh paint strainer bags, and an air pump - some of the supplies used in brewing compost tea.
Freshly harvested worm castings, tea bags, and an air pump – some of the supplies used in brewing compost tea.


2) Brewing Vessel


For an average home garden, a basic 5-gallon bucket or two is adequate to make compost tea. Larger gardens, grow operations, or farms may choose to utilize bigger tanks instead. If it is important to you, there are BPA-free, food-grade 5-gallon plastic buckets available too.

We started brewing aerated compost tea using one 5-gallon bucket. Over the years, we have added more and more 5-gallon buckets to our brew day routine. Now, with the help of a multi-port air pump (described in #4 below), we can brew up to six 5-gallon buckets at a time!


3) “Tea Bag”


It is called compost tea for a reason! The compost needs to be contained and steeped within a little sack, just like tea does. You can get pretty creative here. The idea is to create a sack that is breathable to allow the exchange of microbes and nutrients between the compost and water,  but won’t let too many larger particles through.

We have made sacks from burlap in the past, and still use one of them. Recently, we have been using nylon paint strainer sacks. They work perfectly, are reusable, and easily available. Several layers of cheesecloth could work, but may be more difficult to reuse. There are also some really nice quality, uber-durable compost tea bags on the market too – ready to cinch close and hang!

An image of two hands holding up two mesh one-gallon paint strainer bags full of brown compost. In the background are raised garden beds and an archway full of lush plants.
Tea bags, ready to brew!


4) An Air Source


Next we need an air pump to introduce oxygen into the compost tea brew. In the past, we used a basic aquarium pump. It worked okay, but not nearly as well as the little commercial air pump we use now.

This air pump creates a ton of bubble action, but also has 6 ports so you can brew several buckets at once! The ports are adjustable, so you can turn off the ones you aren’t currently using, or dial the ones you are using up and down for more or less air flow.

On the top and left: Our current 6-port EcoPlus air pump that is larger and metallic. The bottom right shows our old compost tea set-up, using a small aquarium pump and cylinder air stone.
On the top and left: Our current 6-port EcoPlus air pump. The bottom right shows our old compost tea set-up, using a small aquarium pump and air stone.


5) Air Stone or Bubbler (and Tubing)


The air pump is what generates oxygen flow, but you’ll also need a tool to get the air from the pump and down into your brewing vessel. Air stones are often used to make batches of aerated compost tea. When we first starting brewing AACT, we used a basic air stone like this. They do okay, but can get clogged easily and therefore need to be scrubbed after each use.

Now we use these awesome bubbler snakes by TeaLab to make compost tea. They’re designed to fit perfectly in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket, and produce some serious bubble activity through the perforated holes in the bottom of the “snake”. There is also have a little loop to tie and suspend the tea sack from, which also keeps the snake weighed down in the bucket. Fun fact: The bubble snakes are made in Humboldt County, California!

Last but not least, slender silicone airline tubing is used to connect the air stone, snake, or bubbler to the air pump. The TeaLab bubbler tubing is 1/4″ and the standard air pump tubing is 3/16″, so we use these adapter pieces to connect the two hoses together.



6) Microbe Food Source


In addition to the compost itself, other nutrients are often added to aerated compost tea brews. The purpose is to feed the microorganisms in the tea, and thus increase their activity and quantity.

Common additions include kelp, fish hydrolysate, molasses, and humic acid. Most often, we use a little organic molasses, seaweed extract, and/or kelp meal.

7) Dechlorinated water


As much as possible, the water used to make compost tea should be free of disinfecting agents such as chlorine or chloramines. Those are meant to kill microorganisms, so using chlorinated water sort of defeats our purpose here! We use water from our rainwater collection system to make aerated compost tea.

If you are on municipal tap water that uses liquid or gaseous chlorine as a disinfectant, you can simply fill your buckets a day or two in advance, let the water sit out in the sun, and most of the chlorine should dissipate. Unfortunately, chloramines do not “burn off” the same way chlorine does. Another solution to this is to use filtered water. These carbon filters that attach to your hose will help do the trick! We use them extensively in our garden.


Now that we have our supplies covered, let’s brew!



Directions: How to Make Actively Aerated Compost Tea



1) Prepare Brewing Vessels


Add dechlorinated water to your brewing vessels. If needed, let your water sit out for a day or two to let any chlorine burn off. If you are making compost tea in 5-gallon buckets like we do, fill them up most of the way. We generally leave a few inches of room on the top to allow for bubbling and possible foaming.

2) Fill Tea Bags


Using your compost of choice, fill your tea sacks with several cups. There are varying recommendations out there for exactly how much compost to water should be used. We generally use anywhere from 2 to 5 cups of compost per sack, per 5-gallon bucket, depending on how much available compost we have at the time. If you need some tips for how to harvest finished worm castings from a compost worm bin, check out the link to see how we harvest and screen ours!

If you would like to add kelp meal as your microbe food source, add a quarter cup into each tea sack at this time.

Tie the sack closed on top with a string, hemp tie, or similar. Leave a little length to the string so you can suspend the teabag in the bucket.

Two images of filling a tea bag (one gallon mesh paint strainer sack) with finished worm castings, then being tied closed. Shown from above.
Fill it up, tie it up!


3) Feed and Steep


Dunk your ready compost tea sack in the brewing vessel. Just as you would with a tea bag, lift and lower the bag in the water several times to moisten, agitate, and encourage infusion. Tie the extra length of string to the handle of the bucket. Or, if you’re using a TeaLab snake bubbler like ours, tie it to the designed steeping loop at the top of the snake.

At this time, add an additional food source for the microbes (unless you already added kelp meal in the previous step). We typically add 1/3 cup organic molasses to each 5-gallon bucket during every brew. Sometimes, we also add a slug of seaweed extract in place of the kelp meal.

Three images in one. They are all of a hand poised in front of the same white 5-gallon bucket full of liquid, in the setting of a patio garden area. The first shows a paint strainer mesh sack full of several cups of compost, about to be steeped in the bucket of water. The next shows the liquid all brown, as the tea bad is being steeped. The final image shows a bottle of organic molasses, and 1/3 measuring cup pouring some in to the bucket.
Dunk, steep, feed, aerate!


4) Aerate


If you haven’t already, insert your air delivery device (air stone, snake bubbler, etc) into the brewing vessel. Ideally, it should rest on the bottom of the bucket, with the tea bag suspended above it. This prevents the bag from sitting directly on the bubbler and blocking the air flow.

Kick on the air pump! Allow the compost tea to bubble for 12-48 hours. This is the ideal timeframe for optimal microbial activity and nutrient extraction.

Aerated compost tea should ideally be protected from extreme temperatures while it is brewing. Excessive heat and sunlight or freezing cold temperatures can impact the microbial activity. We don’t stress about this too much. However, during the winter, we brew our tea in the garage to keep it a tad warmer. In the summer, we keep the brewing vessels out of the hot sun.  


An image looking down over three 5-gallon buckets of brown liquid. It is compost tea. Air lines are running into the buckets from a nearby air pump. Two are more bubbly on top. They have the larger bubbler snakes. The other bucket look barely bubbly at all. It is the one using a smaller air stone.
The two buckets on the left are being virgorously bubbled with the TeaLab compost BubbleSnakes, which are clearly more effective at aerating the compost tea than the classic air stone in the bucket on the right.


5) Use Right Away


At the end of the designated brewing period, be prepared to use your finished tea in the garden immediately. Actively aerated compost tea becomes anaerobic very quickly, and its benefits and strength quickly degrade. Therefore, we recommend that you make use of your AACT within an hour or two after removing the air source. The quicker, the better! We’ll talk about the many ways to use compost tea in the garden below.

What do I do with the “spent” compost in the tea bags?


There are a few different options for utilizing the compost within the tea bags! Which option you choose depends on how you want to use the compost tea.

If you are going to pour the tea into garden beds, containers, or around other plants straight from the bucket, the worm castings or compost can be incorporated into the tea itself. In that case, we simply open up the tea bags and empty the contents back into the bucket after removing the pump and bubbler. Then, as we give the plants compost tea, we stir the bucket frequently to prevent settling of the castings and ensure even distribution.

On the other hand, if you’d like to apply the compost tea with a watering can or sprayer, you want to keep the spent compost separate. It will clog the holes in a can or sprayer! Some folks even further strain their compost tea if they’re going to put it in a sprayer. In that case, pull up the tea bag, give it a good squeeze to ring out as much liquid into the bucket as possible, and then make use of the spent compost elsewhere in your garden instead! We often empty and spread the contents of the tea bags directly into a garden bed, or around the base of fruit trees.

Two images of Deanna and Aaron on the back patio garden area. They're working over 5-gallon buckets of brown liquid, the compost tea. In one, Deanna is squeezing a teabag of compost over one of the buckets. In the other, Aaron is holding up one of the 5-gallon buckets, poised over a watering can and funnel. There are raised garden beds in the background behind them.
Ha! Sorry, we forgot to take close-up photos during this stage, so candid image captures from the YouTube video will have to do. Me, squeezing the heck out of the tea bag to extract the most liquid as possible. Aaron helps pour it into a watering can, with the aid of a funnel.


Ways to Use Compost Tea in Your Garden


Using Compost Tea Soil Drench


Our preferred method for using compost tea in the garden is applying it as soil drench. A soil drench is just another way of saying “watering with it”. It is quick, easy, and effective! Using a measuring cup with a handle, we simply scoop finished compost tea from the bucket to pour around the base of each plant.

The amount applied varies from one-half cup to several cups each, depending on the size of the plant. Experts recommend to apply as much volume of compost tea as necessary to saturate a plants root zone. That means that smaller plants such as seedlings will need less – because they have such small roots at that point. Larger plants, like established tomato plants or even fruit trees, will appreciate more volume.

Aerated compost tea does not need to be diluted before application. It is mild and cannot “burn” your plants like many other fertilizers can! Use as much as you’d like, but also keep in mind, a little goes a long way! So if needed, you can dilute a smaller batch of tea to create more volume and feed more plants.

Alternatively, we sometimes add compost tea to a watering can. This is particularly helpful when we want to evenly distribute compost tea across an entire bed of small plants, such as with carrots or radishes. Using a large funnel, we ease the finished compost tea into a watering can after removing the tea bag.


Three images in one. Two show a kitchen glass measuring up full of rich brown liquid, being poured onto the soil around the base of growing plants. One shows DeannaCat standing over raised garden bed, watering the bed with a standard watering can. The liquid coming out of the watering can is tinted brown.
Most often, we soak the root zone by scooping directly out of the bucket with a measuring cup. Make sure to stir the bucket frequently to keep it mixed and evenly distributed as you go! Occasionally, we add compost tea to watering cans. Here, I am watering a bed of young radishes sprouts and wanted a nice even distribution.


When and how often?


It is best to apply compost tea to soil soon after a routine watering, when the soil is still damp. Damp soil more readily accepts more moisture than dry soil. Meaning, it will more easily absorb and less will run off. Additionally, you probably won’t need to water for a few days following, which gives the tea some time to do its work before getting diluted.

We like to spoil our plants with an application of AACT once every month or two, but especially for newly transplanted seedlings! Another treat for transplants or stressed plants is an aloe vera soil drench.


Benefits of a Compost Tea Soil Drench


Using compost tea as a soil drench is the most bang-for-your-buck, especially since we usually add the spent compost into the tea solution as well. Additional filtering, such as what may be required for use in a sprayer, creates an extra step. It also removes suspended particles that may contain nutrients & microbes. A soil drench is full-strength aerated compost tea, which delivers all those stellar benefits we previously discussed – straight to your plants root systems.

Another benefit of using compost tea as a soil drench (instead of a foliar spray) is that there is minimal concern for potential pathogens. The soil and root system of the plant act as a buffer to filter out harmful pathogens that could be present in the brew.


Using Compost Tea As A Foliar Spray


Rather than watering the soil and root system, you can apply compost tea directly to plant leaves! Plant foliage and their vascular system are extremely effective at readily absorbing and using nutrients from their surface. Many gardeners use this practice and swear by it.

To create a compost tea foliar spray, you may find the need to filter it further. This largely depends on the tea bags you use, and how fine or porous they are. Either way, do not empty your tea bag into your bucket if you plan to do a foliar application.

Add finished compost tea to a pump sprayer immediately after brewing, and apply to plants leaves until the point of runoff. Drench them! Like all foliage applications, it is best to wet leaves either early in the morning or in the evening hours. Direct sunlight on wet leaves can cause sunburn effects, and will also kill beneficial microbes present in the compost tea.

To be honest, this isn’t something we do very regularly. Mostly for the reasons above: it is an extra step, there are concerns of the sprayer clogging, and the slight risk of pathogens. I will say though, when we do make a foliar spray, I feel 100% comfortable using it on anything we aren’t going to consume directly! For example, on the foliage of tomato, squash, pepper, other veggies, cannabis, or non-edible plants where we aren’t consuming the raw greens.


So, what do you say?! Are you ready to get brewing with us?


Demonstration Video



In summary, you can’t go wrong with actively aerated compost tea! It is easy, and your plants and soil will love it! Sure, you may need a few supplies upfront… But that is a small, one-time investment that can in turn provide you with an otherwise endless supply of free, killer, organic, homemade fertilizer for your garden ~ for years to come! To me, it’s a no-brainer.

I hope you found this helpful. Please feel free to ask questions, and spread the love by sharing this article with friends!


Don’t miss these related posts:


DeannaCat's signature - "keep on growing"

Deanna Talerico (aka DeannaCat) is a garden educator and writer with over 15 years experience in organic gardening. She is a retired Senior Environmental Health Specialist, and holds a M.A. in Environmental Studies and B.S. in Sustainability and Natural Resources.

73 Comments

  • Sarah

    I love all of your detailed posts with the how-to’s, and have followed several in the build out of my garden. I’ve been using your alfalfa tea recipe for the last year and seem to be getting some good results, and now that my worm bin is in full swing, i’m setting up for this aerated compost tea. I am curious about using it on native plants…we live not too far north of you, and outside of our food growing space, have nearly an acre of carefully curated locally native plants. That native soil could really use some more love, outside of the usual compost and mulching it gets. Is this compost tea appropriate for use on CA natives in native soil? I fee like the answer must be yes, that’s it great for everything, but I do know natives to be more sensitive to too much extra messing with, so i’m curious what your experience is with this. Thanks!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Sarah, we are so glad you have found our website to be so helpful! Giving your native plants some compost tea is a great idea! When we have to water a large number of plants with compost tea, we will typically water each plant with a two cup liquid measuring cup so each plant gets a little love without fully watering the plant with compost tea. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • Shaul Grantz

    Great article. I use a similar method when making Aerated VermiCompost Tea (AVCT). The major difference in my method is that I use porous rubber tubing instead of air stones. Porous rubber tubing is like soaker hose for your garden, but instead of water coming out of it, you’re putting out air. The air exits at every part of the tubing, resulting in massive bubbling. The tubing can also be cut and shaped (using common drip-irrigation fittings) to the shape and size of the brew container.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Thanks for sharing Shaul, we also use bubble snakes which have multiple holes throughout the length of the tubing although likely not as many as perforated tubing. Have fun growing!

  • Naturealley

    We are new to making aerated compost tea and are lucky enough to have access to a very good microscope. We have tried compost from different locations, vermicast and looked at samples at regular intervals. We found bacteria, flagellates, ciliates, amoeba, yeasts and fungi mainly appearing in succesion, with numbers raising or falling dramatically between samples. So it is hard to pick the perfect moment, other than regular testing. Did you find you could make a reproducible tea? What would you consider a favourable ratio of these micro organisms for foliar spray? for soil application? Thanks in advance

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Naturealley, that’s great you have been checking on the microscopic life going on in your compost tea at different stages of the aeration process. However, we have never done anything along those lines, we just start off with quality compost (i.e. our own worm castings) and aerate the tea for 24-48 hours, then water it into the garden. We have only been able to make observations with our eyes on the quality of the tea by witnessing the soil and plant health afterwards. We never noticed one batch being better than another, even though they all likely varied by the number of microscopic life within them at any point. We also mostly use compost tea as a soil drench and don’t often foliar spray with it but that could be something we choose to do in the future. Hope that helps and keep us updated on your progress, good luck and have fun growing!

  • Jeff

    Great tips. I’ve been using this method for a few years using redworm compost and molases. The molases is cheaper at the cannabis grow shops (around $12 a gallon) and does not contain sulphur. The plants love this. Love your tips and advice.
    Cheers!

  • Janille

    Hi Deanna, I used your tutorial to set up a worm bin several months ago and am ready to make some compost tea! However, we don’t have space for a pump or big setup (live in an apartment, garden at an alottment). Is it still worthwhile to make passive compost tea? How long should it steep? I have tomatoes growing in small pots indoors right now that need a boost. Can I set them in a tray of compost tea? Or would it be better to place vermicompost at the soil baseline and let it wash down over time?

    Also–I do have one of those large spray bottles with an air pump, but am guessing that wouldn’t be enough aeration. Would it help to use that at all?

    Thanks for all the lovely tutorials, my garden is largely thanks to you. –Janille

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Janille, congrats on setting up your worm bin! It is still worthwhile to passively make compost tea by adding one cup or so of castings to 4 gallons of water and stirring the mixture a couple times a day for 36-48 hours. Since you are living in an apartment and have a garden allotment, it may just be easier to top dress your tomatoes with some fresh castings and then water them into the soil. That way you don’t need to lug a 5 gallon bucket of compost tea to your garden space. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • Irma

    I have a compost tumbler. When we get rain, the rain runs thru the compost and down into a pan underneath. I have discovered my garden plants do not like this liquid, even if I only mix a small amount in a bucket of water. Would aerating this liquid make it useable, or does the compost really need to sit in the water for a long time?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Irma, I wouldn’t use the water that drains through your compost tumbler, if you have finished compost from your tumbler, take a cup or two from it and make compost tea, either by simply adding the compost to a bucket of water and stirring it a couple times a day, after 48 hours, you can then water your plants or garden or you can use and aerator to make the compost tea as we outline in this article. Either way, 24-48 hours is a long enough time for the compost to be in the water, if your plants still don’t like the tea after these steps, I would make sure that your tumbler is indeed producing quality compost to use in the garden. You still need a nice ratio of greens and browns to produce quality compost, you don’t want anaerobic conditions which occur when the decomposing material is too wet. Hope that helps and good luck!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Carol, it is broken down organic matter which should be full of beneficial microbes that would benefit any soil it is added to.

  • Dan

    Aaron,

    Good morning.
    I’m wondering about the size of air pump you’d recommend.
    My gardening is going to be pretty small-scale.
    Happy Sundae to you two.

    Listening to Flaming Lips,
    Dan

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Dan, are you going to be using the TeaLab bubble snake for a 5 gallon bucket? If so, a 750 GPH to 1110 GPH pump should work out great, enjoy the music and the rest of the day in the garden!

  • Michelle

    Hello, Just clarifying, do you use molasses AND Kelp meal or seaweed extract or is it one or the other? Thanks! I ordered the tea lab kit with the bubble snake and I am excited to give this a try.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Michelle, we always use molasses as a food source for the microbes and we will occasionally add kelp meal if we feel like it but that part is optional, the Tea Lab bubbler works really great and you will be able to make really great compost tea with it. We love ours and are looking to upgrade to the large bubble snake so we can make 50 gallon batches of compost tea. Have fun making tea, your garden and plants will love it!

    • Moses

      I get more a lot more bubbles than the pump and the snake bubbler in the picture. In the same five gallon bucket.
      The pump and stones cost me $14.
      I’m wondering if it was just your pump or setup. I’ve done 10 gallons easily. I’d probably have to by another pump to do 40-50 gallon batch, though!

      • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

        Hi Moses, whatever works for you is great, our air pump is 793 GPH so that likely isn’t an issue, I think using more air stones per bucket increases the amount of bubbles but we seem to get good results either way. Good luck and have fun growing!

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