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Cannabis,  Compost

How to Make Actively Aerated Compost Tea to Fertilize Your Garden

When people ask what we feed our plants, more often than not, my answer is an exuberant: “Compost tea!” Actively aerated compost tea, or AACT, is a biologically-active, nutrient-rich, mild-but-strong natural fertilizer. It can be made with worm castings or other high-quality compost. We try to feed our plants with aerated compost tea at least once every month or two. I guess the the proof is in the pudding… because our plants are as happy and healthy as can be!

Do you want to learn how to make aerated compost tea? Read along and I will teach you how! We’ll go over the benefits of using compost tea, the brewing supplies needed, the step-by-step process of how to make aerated compost tea, and the various ways you can use it in your garden.

There is a tutorial video that shows the entire process at the end of this post! It’s really quite simple, but there is certainly some insight I hope to provide you. Including, what proper compost tea is, and what is not.


Compost tea is a natural liquid fertilizer that is made by steeping compost in water, with or without the addition of air. The purpose of brewing compost tea is to extract beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients, and then provide them to plants in a form that they can readily uptake and utilize.

What are beneficial microbes? They include bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes – who all have an important role in soil health! Using aerated compost tea in your garden is a great way to enhance the soil food web. We talked a lot about the soil food web in our “Building the Perfect Organic Soil” article, if you’d like to learn more.

A diagram by Heidelberg Farms showing what the Soil Food Web looks like below ground. There are tree roots with compost and micro arthropods on the soil surface, with bacteria and fungi, mycorrhizae, and nematodes and protozoa below the soil surface, in and around the tree roots.
Image via Pinterest

“Chemical-based pesticides, fumigants, herbicides and some synthetic fertilizers kill a range of the beneficial micro-organisms that encourage plant growth.  On the other hand, compost teas improve the life in the soil and on plant surfaces. High quality compost tea will treat the leaf surface and soil with beneficial micro-organisms instead of destroying them.”

Soil Food Web Institute

Historically, gardeners and farmers have made a passive or non-aerated compost tea by soaking a sack of compost in water for an extended period of time, often up to two weeks. This passive brewing of non-aerated compost tea (NCT) has been occurring for centuries! In more recent years, modern agriculturalists have began to brew super-charged compost tea in a much shorter duration of time, by introducing oxygen, food, and additional nutrients (ACT).  This is what we do!

Why Aerate Compost Tea?

If you want to make the most of your compost and create the best tea possible, brewing actively aerated compost tea is the way to go! Why not take a stellar product, like homemade compost or worm castings, and make it even better? By introducing air and a food source for the beneficial microbes, their populations within the tea increases by the thousands.

The process of making actively aerated compost tea significantly enhances the strength and effectiveness of your starting compost. However, the process will only amplify the inhabitants and nutrients that are already in the raw compost used to brew the tea. Therefore, it is important to start with high-quality, well-aged, properly composted material. Quality in equals quality out! We’ll talk more about the types of compost that can be used in the supplies section to follow.

“Aerobic organisms are the most beneficial as they promote the processes that a plant needs in order to grow without stress and with a greater resistance to disease. To enhance this community of beneficials, the compost tea must remain aerobic. Anaerobic conditions during brewing can result in the growth of some quite detrimental microbes and also produce some very detrimental metabolites.  It is best to avoid extremely low oxygen concentrations during brewing.”

Soil Food Web Institute

The reference to “detrimental microbes” above includes the potential development of human disease-causing organisms. It is only in anaerobic or low-oxygen conditions that harmful human pathogens can outcompete beneficial microbes and flourish.

In summary, aerating compost tea encourages the best microbes possible, both the type and quantity, while reducing the risk of pathogens.

Two hands cup rich fluffy worm castings compost. In the background are raised garden beds and chickens roaming.
Worm casting. Another awesome thing about making aerated compost tea is that the worms can survive the brewing process! If worms were otherwise submerged in water for days, they would drown and die. While we try to screen our castings well and not bring worms with us, some small ones and their egg cocoons are usually present. They breathe through their skin, so the air in the tea keeps them alive.

What are the Benefits of Using Compost Tea?

  • Compost tea enhances the soils ability to retain nutrients. The nutrients in the soil will runoff and be depleted less quickly. Therefore, there is less need to use other fertilizers.
  • An enriched population of beneficial microbes, introduced via compost tea, can increase the bioavailability of nutrients to plants. They break down organic matter and free up minerals. This means the plants can uptake nutrients from the soil more readily.
  • A healthy soil food web can buffer soil and plants against pollution. For example, compost-rich soil is excellent at reducing the impacts, uptake, and concentration of pathogens, contaminants, chemicals, and heavy metals that may be introduced or present in soil.
  • Compost tea can help improve the soils moisture retention properties. This prevents stress to plants by maintaining a more evenly moist soil, and reduces the need for more frequent watering.
  • Plants fed compost tea are reported to not only grow stronger, but also have a boosted immune system and improved ability to resist disease.
  • Likewise, it increases a plants ability to tolerate and rebound from stress such as drought or pests.

Compost Tea versus Worm Bin Leachate

Before we get into the instructions on how to make aerated compost tea, I want to point out a common point of confusion for some people. Many gardeners, ourselves included, make aerated compost tea using finished worm castings from a worm compost bin. The process (and the instructions I am providing you today) results in an aerobic compost tea solution. This is NOT the same thing as the liquid or runoff that can be collected from the bottom of a worm bin. That is leachate, and it is anaerobic.

In our “Vermicomposting 101: How to Create & Maintain a Simple Worm Compost Bin” article, you’ll see that we don’t add drainage holes to the bottom of our tote-style worm bins. The moisture is kept at an ideal level, the consistency of a damp but wrung-out sponge, through care and upkeep of the bin! This includes not giving it too much wet food, and adding new bedding or brown material when it is fed. When the worm bin is too dry, we give it a small shower of water.

When worm bins are maintained too wet, they leak. The runoff is often collected in a catchment system below, depending on the type of worm bin. Some gardeners do use this runoff to water their plants, calling it “worm tea” or “worm wee” even. Unfortunately, that isn’t the good stuff. But wouldn’t that be nice and easy?! This leachate liquid may be okay to use, but it is also more likely to contain negative bacteria and pathogens due to its anaerobic state.

So let’s learn how to make the good stuff, shall we?

A table full of compost tea supplies, on the patio garden outdoor table. Raised garden beds with lush green plants are in the background. On the table - Two twisted PVC bubble snakes that fit inside a 5 gallon bucket. A small plastic tote of freshly harvested worm castings next to mesh paint strainer bags, and an air pump - some of the supplies used in brewing compost tea.


1) Compost

As we already discussed, the quality of your starting compost directly dictates the quality of your aerated tea! Whatever is in that compost is going to be amplified. A variety of compost types can be used for making aerated compost tea, though they may provide a slightly different end product.

“Research suggests that carbon-rich feedstocks (e.g. dry leaves, sawdust, wood chips, shredded newspaper), produce a compost with a higher fungal content. Nitrogen-rich feedstock (hay weeds, coffee grounds, herbaceous material and manures) produce compost with higher bacterial content. Vermicompost is used as an ingredient in many compost tea recipes. This compost is typically the highest in available nutrients.”

San Francisco Department of Environment

No matter what you choose to use, ensure that it is well-aged, balanced, and properly decomposed. For example, do not use fresh animal manures, or compost that is anaerobic and stinks like a landfill.

Most often, we use vermicompost from our worm bin to make AACT. If you need help getting a super simple worm bin started, see this post. Or, check out “Composting 101: What, Why, & How to Compost At Home” to learn about 6 different ways to compost.

If you do not have your own homemade compost, you can usually buy finished worm castings at your local garden center or buy some online. Another options is to use convenient compost tea bags from Malibu’s Compost – our favorite organic biodynamic compost company. The compost is already “bagged” and ready to steep! They offer various types of tea bags, including ones for trees, veggies, and even houseplants.

A small plastic tote of freshly harvested worm castings sit on a table next to mesh paint strainer bags, and an air pump - some of the supplies used in brewing compost tea.
Freshly harvested worm castings, tea bags, and an air pump – some of the supplies used in brewing compost tea.

2) Brewing Vessel

This one is super simple. For an average home garden, a basic 5-gallon bucket or two is adequate for making aerated compost tea. Larger gardens, grow operations, or farms may choose to utilize bigger tanks instead. If it is important to you, there are BPA-free, food-grade 5-gallon plastic buckets available too.

We started brewing aerated compost tea using one 5-gallon bucket. Over the years, we have added more and more 5-gallon buckets to our brew day routine. Now, with the help of a multi-port air pump (described in #4 below), we can brew up to six 5-gallon buckets at a time! Most times, we make three buckets.

3) “Tea Bag”

It is called “compost tea” for a reason! The compost needs to be contained and steeped within a little sack, just like tea would be. You can get pretty creative here. The idea is to create a sack that is breathable to allow the exchange of microbes and nutrients between the compost and water,  but won’t let too many larger particles through.

We have made sacks from burlap in the past, and still use one of them. Recently, we have been using nylon paint strainer sacks. They work perfectly and are easily available. Cheesecloth could work, if it is layered several times, but may be more difficult to reuse. There are also some really nice quality, uber-durable compost tea bags on the market too – ready to cinch close and hang!

An image of two hands holding up two mesh one-gallon paint strainer bags full of brown compost. In the background are raised garden beds and an archway full of lush plants.
Tea bags, ready to brew!

4) Air Source

As you’d expect by its name, aerated compost tea needs some air! An air pump is used to introduce oxygen into your compost tea brew. In the past, we used a basic aquarium pump. It worked okay… But to be honest? Not nearly as well as the little commercial air pump we use now!

This air pump that we love and use not only creates a ton of bubble action, but also has 6 ports so you can brew several buckets at once! The ports are adjustable, so you can turn off the ones you aren’t currently using, or dial the ones you are using up and down for more or less air flow.

On the top and left: Our current 6-port EcoPlus air pump that is larger and metallic. The bottom right shows our old compost tea set-up, using a small aquarium pump and cylinder air stone.
On the top and left: Our current 6-port EcoPlus air pump. The bottom right shows our old compost tea set-up, using a small aquarium pump and air stone.

5) Air Stone or Bubbler, & Tubing

The air pump is what generates oxygen flow, but you’ll also need a tool to get the air from the pump and down into your brewing vessel. Air stones are often used to make batches of aerated compost tea. When we first starting brewing AACT, we used a basic air stone like this. They do okay, but can get clogged easily and therefore need to be scrubbed after each use. Similar to our air pump, we have since upgraded to something that we find works much, much better!

To aerate our compost tea, we have been using these bubbler snakes by TeaLab for the last few years. We love these things! They produce some serious bubble activity through the perforated holes in the bottom of the “snake”. The bubblers fit perfectly in a 5-gallon bucket, and have a little loop where you tie and suspend your tea sack from. It is uber convenient, effective, and also keeps the snake weighed down in the bucket. Fun fact: The bubble snakes are made in Humboldt County, California!

When you watch the demonstration video at the end of this post, you’ll see what a significant difference there is between the snake bubblers and the air stone bubble activity. And they are all hooked to the same air pump! We’ve been meaning to buy another bubble snake soon, to eliminate the use of the air stone completely.

Last but not least, slender silicone airline tubing is used to connect the air stone, snake, or bubbler to the air pump. The TeaLab bubbler tubing is 1/4″ and the standard air pump tubing is 3/16″, so we use these adapter pieces to connect the two hoses together.

6) Microbe Food Source

In addition to the compost itself, other nutrients are often added to aerated compost tea brews. The purpose is to feed the microorganisms in the tea, and thus increase their activity and quantity.

Common additions include kelp, fish hydrolysate, molasses, and humic acid. Most often, we use a little organic molasses, seaweed extract, and/or kelp meal. We were out of kelp meal at the time we made this example brew for you all, so that is why you don’t see it!

7) Dechlorinated water

As much as possible, the water used for brewing aerated compost tea should be free of disinfecting agents such as chlorine or chloramines. Those are meant to kill microorganisms, so using chlorinated water sort of defeats our purpose here! We use captured rainwater from our rain tanks for brewing compost tea.

If you are on municipal tap water that uses liquid or gaseous chlorine as a disinfectant, you can simply fill your buckets a day or two in advance, let them sit out in the sun, and most of the chlorine should dissipate. Unfortunately, chloramines do not “burn off” the same way chlorine does. Another solution to this is to use filtered water. These carbon filters that attach to your hose will help do the trick! We use them extensively in our garden.

Now that we have our supplies covered, let’s brew!

Directions: How to Make Actively Aerated Compost Tea

Prepare your Brewing Vessels

Add dechlorinated water to your brewing vessels. If needed, let your water sit out for a day or two to let any chlorine burn off. If you are making compost tea in 5-gallon buckets like we do, fill them up most of the way. We generally leave a few inches of room on the top to allow for bubbling and possible foaming.

Prepare Your Compost Tea Sacks

Using your compost of choice, fill your tea sacks with several cups. There are varying recommendations out there for exactly how much compost to water should be used. We generally use anywhere from 2 to 5 cups of compost per sack, per 5-gallon bucket, depending on how much available compost we have at the time. If you need some tips for how to harvest finished worm castings from a compost worm bin, check out the link to see how we harvest and screen ours!

If you would like to add kelp meal as your microbe food source, add a quarter cup per tea sack at this time.

Tie the sack closed on top with a string, hemp tie, or similar. Leave a little length to the string so you can suspend the teabag in the bucket.

Two images of filling a tea bag (one gallon mesh paint strainer sack) with finished worm castings, then being tied closed. Shown from above.
Fill it up, tie it up!

Steep & Feed

Dunk your ready compost tea sack in the brewing vessel. Just as you would with a tea bag, lift and lower the bag in the water several times to moisten, agitate, and encourage infusion. Tie the extra length of string to the handle of the bucket. Or, if you’re using a TeaLab snake bubbler like ours, tie it to the designed steeping loop at the top of the snake.

At this time, add an additional food source for the microbes – unless you already added kelp meal in the previous step. We typically add 1/3 cup organic molasses to each 5-gallon bucket during every brew. Sometimes, we also add a slug of seaweed extract in place of the kelp meal.

Three images in one. They are all of a hand poised in front of the same white 5-gallon bucket full of liquid, in the setting of a patio garden area. The first shows a paint strainer mesh sack full of several cups of compost, about to be steeped in the bucket of water. The next shows the liquid all brown, as the tea bad is being steeped. The final image shows a bottle of organic molasses, and 1/3 measuring cup pouring some in to the bucket.
Dunk, steep, feed, aerate!


If you haven’t already, insert your air delivery device (air stone, snake bubbler, etc) into the brewing vessel. Ideally, it should rest on the bottom of the bucket, with the tea bag suspended above it. This prevents the bag from sitting directly on the bubbler and blocking the air flow.

Kick on the air pump! Allow the compost tea to bubble for 12-48 hours. This is the ideal timeframe for optimal microbial activity and nutrient extraction.

Aerated compost tea should ideally be protected from extreme temperatures while it is brewing. Excessive heat and sunlight or freezing cold temperatures can impact the microbial activity. We don’t stress about this too much. However, during the winter, we brew our tea in the garage to keep it a tad warmer. In the summer, we keep the brewing vessels out of the hot sun.  

An image looking down over three 5-gallon buckets of brown liquid. It is compost tea. Air lines are running into the buckets from a nearby air pump. Two are more bubbly on top. They have the larger bubbler snakes. The other bucket look barely bubbly at all. It is the one using a smaller air stone.
The two buckets on the left are being virgorously bubbled with the TeaLab compost BubbleSnakes, which are clearly more effective at aerating the compost tea than the classic air stone in the bucket on the right.

Use Your Compost Tea Right Away!

At the end of the designated brewing period, be prepared to use your finished tea in the garden immediately. Actively aerated compost tea becomes anaerobic very quickly, and its benefits and strength quickly degrade. Therefore, we recommend that you make use of your AACT within an hour or two after removing the air source. The quicker, the better! We’ll talk about the many ways to use compost tea in the garden below.

But, what do I do with the “spent” compost in the tea bags?

There are a few different options for utilizing the compost within the tea bags! Which option you choose depends on how you want to use the compost tea.

If you are going to pour the tea into garden beds, containers, or around other plants straight from the bucket, the worm castings or compost can be incorporated into the tea itself. For example, we most often scoop out helpings of finished tea with a large liquid measuring cup. Once the tea has finished brewing, we simply open up the tea bags and empty the contents back into the bucket. Then, as we give the plants compost tea, we stir the bucket frequently to prevent settling of the castings and ensure even distribution.

On the other hand, if you’d like to apply the compost tea with a watering can or sprayer, you want to keep the spent compost separate. It will clog the holes in a can or sprayer! Some folks even further strain their compost tea if they’re going to put it in a sprayer. In that case, pull up the tea bag, give it a good squeeze to ring out as much liquid into the bucket as possible, and then make use of the spent compost elsewhere in your garden instead! We often empty and spread the contents of the tea bags directly into a garden bed, or around the base of fruit trees.

Two images of Deanna and Aaron on the back patio garden area. They're working over 5-gallon buckets of brown liquid, the compost tea. In one, Deanna is squeezing a teabag of compost over one of the buckets. In the other, Aaron is holding up one of the 5-gallon buckets, poised over a watering can and funnel. There are raised garden beds in the background behind them.
Ha! Sorry, we forgot to take close-up photos during this stage, so candid image captures from the YouTube video will have to do. Me, squeezing the heck out of the tea bag to extract the most liquid as possible. Aaron helps pour it into a watering can, with the aid of a funnel.

How to Use Aerated Compost Tea in Your Garden

Using Compost Tea As A Soil Drench

Our preferred method for using compost tea in the garden is applying it as soil drench. A “soil drench” is essentially just another way of saying “watering with it”. It is quick, easy, and effective!

All we do is scoop out a helping to pour around the base of each plant, which may vary from one-half cup to several cups each, depending on the size of the plant. Experts recommend to apply as much volume of compost tea as necessary to saturate a plants root zone. That means that smaller plants such as seedlings will need less – because they have such small roots at that point. Larger plants, like established tomato plants or even fruit trees, will appreciate more volume!

As an alternative to scooping out finished compost tea with a measuring cup, we sometimes add the tea to a watering can. This is particularly helpful when we want to evenly distribute compost tea across an entire bed of small plants, such as with carrots or radishes. Again, this is with the tea alone – not with the spent compost too! Using a large funnel, we ease the finished compost tea into a watering can after removing the tea bag.

It is best to apply compost tea to soil soon after a routine watering, when the soil is still damp. Damp soil more readily accepts more moisture than dry soil. Meaning, it will more easily absorb and less will run off. Additionally, you probably won’t need to water for a few days following, which gives the tea some time to do its work before getting diluted.

Three images in one. Two show a kitchen glass measuring up full of rich brown liquid, being poured onto the soil around the base of growing plants. One shows DeannaCat standing over raised garden bed, watering the bed with a standard watering can. The liquid coming out of the watering can is tinted brown.
Most often, we soak the root zone by scooping directly out of the bucket with a measuring cup. Make sure to stir the bucket frequently to keep it mixed and evenly distributed as you go! Occasionally, we add compost tea to watering cans. Here, I am watering a bed of young radishes sprouts and wanted a nice even distribution.

We like to spoil our plants with an application of AACT once every month or two, but especially for newly transplanted seedlings! Another treat for transplants or stressed plants is an aloe vera soil drench.

Aerated compost tea does not need to be diluted before application. It is mild and cannot “burn” your plants like many other fertilizers can! Use as much as you’d like, but also keep in mind, a little goes a long way! If needed, you totally can dilute a smaller batch of tea to create more volume and feed more plants.

Benefits of a Compost Tea Soil Drench

Using compost tea as a soil drench is the most bang-for-your-buck, especially since we usually add the spent compost into the tea solution as well. Additional filtering, such as what may be required for use in a sprayer, creates an extra step. It also removes suspended particles that may contain nutrients & microbes. A soil drench is full-strength aerated compost tea, which delivers all those stellar benefits we previously discussed – straight to your plants root systems.

Another benefit of using compost tea as a soil drench is that there is minimal concern for potential pathogens. The soil and root system of the plant act as a buffer to filter out harmful pathogens that could be present in the brew. Because we use captured rainwater, we aren’t extremely comfortable with the idea of spraying something like leafy greens with our tea. I’m sure the good microbes are kicking butt and warding off pathogens in our brew as they should, but why risk it?

Using Compost Tea As A Foliar Spray

Rather than watering the soil and root system, you can apply compost tea directly to plant leaves! Plant foliage and their vascular system are extremely effective at readily absorbing and using nutrients from their surface. Many gardeners use this practice and swear by it.

To create a compost tea foliar spray, you may find the need to filter it further. This largely depends on the tea bags you use, and how fine or porous they are. Either way, do not empty your tea bag into your bucket if you plan to do a foliar application.

Add finished compost tea to a pump sprayer immediately after brewing, and apply to plants leaves until the point of runoff. Drench them! Like all foliage applications, it is best to wet leaves either early in the morning or in the evening hours. Direct sunlight on wet leaves can cause sunburn effects, and will also kill beneficial microbes present in the compost tea.

To be honest, this isn’t something we do very regularly. Mostly for the reasons above: it is an extra step, there are concerns of the sprayer clogging, and the slight risk of pathogens. I will say though, when we do make a foliar spray, I feel 100% comfortable using it on anything we aren’t going to consume directly! For example, on the foliage of tomato, squash, pepper, other veggies, cannabis, or non-edible plants where we aren’t consuming the raw greens. It’s just the fresh leafy greens that make me most nervous.

So, what do you say?! Are you ready to get brewing with us?

Check out this tutorial video that walks you through the whole process!

Check out our YouTube channel for more videos by clicking here!

In summary, you can’t go wrong with actively aerated compost tea! It is easy, and your plants and soil will love it! Sure, you may need a few supplies upfront… But that is a small, one-time investment that can in turn provide you with an otherwise endless supply of free, killer, organic, homemade fertilizer for your garden ~ for years to come! To me, it’s a no-brainer.

I hope you found this helpful. Please feel free to ask questions, and spread the love by sharing this article with friends!

The post is proudly supported by Kellogg Organics, where #organicbuildslife

DeannaCat's signature - "keep on growing"


  • Ed

    Thanks for sharing all this great information. I like the concept of using worm casting vs a manure base compost for compost tea. Have you ever had you casting checked for any possible bad bacteria or pathogens?
    I am also nervous of spraying any compost tea on any greens that are eaten raw. I am assuming you use the soil drench method on your greens?
    So is it safe to put tea on your root vegetables since some of those are eaten raw?
    Thanks Again!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Ed, we have never had our worm castings tested for any bad bacteria or pathogens just because we have never had a reason to do so. We always apply the compost tea as a soil drench as we find that most effective, we also use the worm tea on carrots and radishes without worry, even though some will be eaten raw. In all, our garden produce has never made us sick throughout the years so nothing to worry too much about there. Hope that helps and have fun gardening!

  • Chris

    Is there any advantage to making a tea over just top dressing worm castings and watering in as far as adding in nutrients and soil biology?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Chris, aerating the worm tea is supposed to increase the number of beneficial microbes in the resulting tea. Yet the main reason we like to use worm tea over top dressing is that it allows a smaller amount of compost to cover a larger area. Granted, we do like to add a small amount of worm castings to planting holes of newly transplanted seedlings as well. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Monica

    Hi! If I’m just using the worm tea as a soil drench is the tea bag really necessary? Can I just dump compost and worm castings in the water without putting it in a bag? I know you mentioned that it might clog the aerator, but aside from that, is there any other benefit to having an actual bag?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Monica, there is no need for a bag to contain your vermicompost in this instance aside from the small chance your aerator may clog with debris. Hopefully your plants and garden are thanking your for the compost tea, have fun growing!

      • Ra

        Hi we have a bore which we use to water plants, would this be fine as an alternative to rainwater or distilled water? Would the carbon filters help?
        Also best article I have read so far about the process.

        • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

          Hello Ra, while I am not terribly familiar with bores in general, it seems that making sure the salinity of the water isn’t off the charts where it can harm your plants is the first place to start. However, since it seems you already use this water for your garden, I don’t see why you shouldn’t be able to use it for compost tea as well. Hope that helps and have fun making some tea!

    • Kevin n


      I just started my first worm bin and noticed that the bottoms been collecting brown liquid, is that basically the worm tea? Because I’m not sure if it’s because I’m overwatering. Is it also bad if I leave this liquid at the bottom to settle with the composting soil? Appreciate your post and time.


      • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

        Hi Kevin, that liquid in the bottom is called leachate and it is not worm tea. It is usually anaerobic and not the best, it is from your worm bin being too wet, don’t water the bedding unless it is really dry. The worms do a good job of keeping the material at the right moisture level if you don’t over feed them. We rarely add extra water to the worm bin as just adding their food usually makes the bedding wet enough. If you haven’t checked out our Vermicomposting 101: How to Create & Maintain a Simple Worm Bin article, you may find some useful information there. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Linda Brackell-Bisson

    This post is amazing…well all of your posts are amazing! Thanks for that.

    We built a raised bed this year. I am so excited about everything that we have growing. BUT something is happening to the beets.

    I wish I knew how to send a photo (a techie, I am not). But the leaves are turning grey, weakening, and withering. Any ideas?

    Ontario, Canada

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Linda, thank you so much for the kind words are we are glad you enjoy the articles. Congratulations on getting a garden going, it is an extremely rewarding hobby and lifestyle. It is hard to diagnose plant problems as they can appear as one thing but are actually caused by something else. I would look into the pest leaf miners and see if that may be a cause as it afflicts our chard and beet greens here. Another issue could be some sort of fungal disease, what other types of plants are in the raised bed and are they not affected in the same way? Hope that is enough to get you started on figuring out what is going on with your beets. Let us know if anything else comes up.

  • Kenny

    Can you water multiple times a month with this? Like every watering? 5 to 10 times depending on outdoor conditions of course

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Kenny, you can water with compost tea as much as you like. It is fairly mild in nature even though it can provide immense benefits to your garden but we typically only water with AACT once or twice a month. Let us know what you end up doing and the results of your effort, hope that helps and good luck!

  • John jurgens

    I tried (am currently trying) my hand at aerated tea. For my starter I used a bag of biochar that has been in a barrel with glodfish. The bag has been in there for 6-7 months. I put 10 gallons of standing rainwater in a trashcan and added the bag of biochar. I started bubbling the water and then added 4 tablespoons of molasses. I have looked at the water and it is brown from the molasses but there are a lot of brown specs in it. I would like to think there is something from the fish living in the biochar and I am hoping I can boost those critters in my tea. Do you have any idea what I might see using my starter?
    Tomorrow morning I will stop the experiment and dump out the bag of biochar into the tea. I will water the garden well and then dump the tea biochar mix on the plants. I will do some plants and not others so I can have a comparason. What do I have to lose?
    Any thoughts on my plan?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello John, I believe biochar is best used in combination with organic matter such as vermicompost or other high quality compost and mixed into the soil itself at a ratio of 1-10% of total soil volume (a little goes along way). I would imagine that your tea should still have beneficial microbes that your plants will enjoy, next time try brewing a tea with fresh vermicompost or high quality compost. Good luck and let us know how your comparison report goes!

  • Yasmeen

    Is there anyway to store the worm compost tea for a month or more?
    And what happen if I let it more than 48 hours with airpump working?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Yasmeen, it is best to use the tea right after letting it brew or steep so the microbes are most active and plentiful. Just store the compost or harvest vermicastings until you want to make tea instead of storing the tea itself. Nothing terrible will happen if the tea steeps or brews for longer than 48 hours but I believe there have been studies showing that once it reaches a certain point there are diminishing returns. As in, at 48 hours the microbial activity is the most high and beneficial, if it goes longer the activity will slowly decline. Hope that helps and good luck!

      • Shelly

        Hello! First, much appreciation to you both for the rich content that has allowed me to vermicompost, make sourdough, grow plants I didn’t think I could grow… thank you.
        My garden, vermicompost, and I are in Florida where keeping things dry is a continuous goal. I have drainage holes at the bottom of my worm bin hotel for this reason. What can I do with the lechate that sometimes accumulates at the bottom? I hate to waste.

        Any resources for tropical humid environments that may help further adapt from drier colder climates gardening? I previously hardened in the Midwest and Cali. Thank you

        • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

          Hi Shelly, it’s great to hear that you have been able to enjoy the process/experience of vermicomposting, sourdough, and growing various plants. It is generally recommended to discard the leachate as it is a byproduct of an overly wet worm bin, you can probably get away with putting it on top of mature trees or shrubs but I would avoid using it on houseplants, in the garden, or on other more sensitive plants. We don’t have any specific resources for gardening in tropical climates but you may have to string together various articles and topic for more information as I am not sure of a single source that includes an all in one guide. Hope that helps and have fun baking and growing!

  • Michelle Koch

    How often is optimum for watering with the aerated worm compost tea? Primarily veggies and flowers.My dad is interested in me getting him started in his garage – he is 91 – is the pump you recommended something to be concerned about getting very hot, and is it very noisy?

    Thank so much!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Michelle, the pump does get slightly warm and creates a little buzz sound, though the bubbling of the AACT is usually what creates the most noise. If we had it our way, we would apply the worm compost tea once a month to all of our vegetables and flowers. Although you could apply it more or less often as needed. Hope that helps and good luck, let us know if you have any other questions.

    • Spencer Douglas

      Was curious if you’ve ever used compost and worm castings to brew a tea? Would there be a wider range of beneficial microbes and such? Also curious about using both molasses and kelp meal as a food source? I was thinking along similar lines.. maybe you’d get the extra benefits of kelp meal and perhaps encourage a wider range of microbes? But maybe just as good to top dress with it? Im new to compost tea but after using typical “organic” nutrients last grow season and having multiple issues im ready to try something new! I’ve got a small yard but have dedicated a learning(?) raised bed where im trying lots of the techniques ive learned from you site. Thanks for putting this all together its awesome!

      • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

        Hi Spencer, glad to hear that you have picked up a few new techniques from the site. Using compost and worm castings together in a tea sounds like a great idea. Also using molasses and kelp as a food source is the way to go but you won’t need to add much more than a tablespoon or two of kelp meal per 5 gallons of water if brewed with a compost tea. Whereas if brewing a botanical tea with kelp meal, 1/4 cup per 5 gallons of water is advisable. Hope that helps and have fun transforming your garden and soil with compost tea!

    • Mike

      I can’t believe the information you can find these days about ACT! I’ve been doing it for years. I use our worm castings, fish emulsion, liquid kelp, humic acid powder and molasses. Not sure about proper ratios though. Also, I use rain water and I do like to dilute to get more coverage. Great article.!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Sam, I am not quite sure but it all depends on if you are using it to water the vegetation via the soil or if you are going to use it as a foliar spray for the plant tissue itself. We easily go through three 5 gallon buckets of worm tea by watering all of our raised garden beds and various fruit trees and we are only on .20 acres. It may just take a little experimenting to see what works best for you but either way you will have a microbial rich tea for your property. Good luck!

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