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How to Harvest Worm Castings from a Simple Worm Compost Bin

Worm castings, also known as “black gold”, are a stellar natural fertilizer for your garden! They provide rich, readily-available nutrients for your plants, and improve your soil structure too. Maybe you know this already… Possibly, you already have a worm bin – and have been diverting your food waste into it. Good for you! Now you just want to know how to harvest the worm castings, so you can put them to good use. Let me show you how!

When the time is right, harvesting worm castings from a basic worm bin is really, really simple! And I have a few tips to make it even easier! The worm castings can be sifted with a DIY screen system, as I will show you in the demonstration video at the end of this post. Or, they can just be harvested by hand.

This post is geared for folks using a simple tote-style, single-compartment worm bin like we use. The fancier layered worm bins have their own harvesting methods.

If you don’t yet have a worm bin at home and are interested in getting one set up, or need some pointers to help better maintain yours, check out this post to learn just how easy it is! Vermicomposting 101: How to Create & Maintain a Simple Worm Bin.

A close up two hands cupping a large handful of red compost worms, hovering over a worm bin of shredded paper and food waste in the background.
Red wiggler compost worms from Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm

Preparing your Worm Bin for Harvest

If you just created a worm compost bin, don’t expect castings to be ready for harvest immediately. The worm bin needs to get established, and be routinely fed and fluffed for a few months first. This gives the worms time to eat, turn things over, and break down food and bedding into worm castings – their poop.

Once you begin to see the worm bin transforming from raw materials into finished worm castings, you can think about harvesting them. Finished worm castings look similar to good, rich soil. They’re dark brown, tiny, round bits of material that have passed through their system.

When harvesting worm castings, the goal is to collect as much castings as possible, but leave the worms behind in the bin. It is okay if a few worms come along for the ride, and some of their egg cocoons and tiny babies will inevitably be harvested. That’s fine! On the other hand, you don’t want to deplete your worm bin population by removing too many. Therefore, we need the worms to get out of the way!

Move Over, Worms!

A week or two before you want to harvest the worm castings, stir and spread the contents of your bin out in the bottom. Next, feed the worms exclusively on one side of the worm bin during that time. Bury the food (and if needed, any new browns/bedding) in one far corner, with plans to harvest worm castings from the opposite side. The worms should migrate there to eat, leaving the other side of the bin hopefully worm-free. If there is a lot of existing food matter and worms spread evenly throughout your worm bin, it may take a little longer to accomplish this.

Once the majority of the worms have migrated, it is time to harvest castings!

Four images in one. The first shows a hand pointing to the corner of a worm bin full of brown material that looks like soil. The next is a close up of the worms in the bin. Next, a small shovel is being used to scoop out worm castings from the bin into a smaller bucket. Last is the bucket being held up over the bin, now full of worm castings.
In the top left, I am pointing out the corner where the worms have been fed lately. When I lightly dig around that spot, I can see the worms and food material. I scoop out worm castings from the opposite side of the pile, furthest away from the food. I took a nice big haul, because we were getting ready to make 15 gallons of aerated compost tea.

Harvesting Worm Castings

One extremely simple method of harvesting worm castings is by scooping them out. Using a small trowel, scoop out the finished castings from the “resting” side of your worm bin into a bucket. That’s it!

However, depending on how well broken-down the material in your worm bin is, or how well the worms migrated to the opposite side of the bin, you may need to pick through the material a little by hand. Sift through the castings and throw back large pieces of food matter, lumps of shredded paper or other bedding, and as many worms as you reasonably can. If the worm castings are clumpy, try to break up the large chunks.

Another option is to take it one step further – to harvest and then sift them with the aid of a simple screen.

Screening Worm Castings

We used to just scoop and pick through castings with a trowel, as described above. It took fewer “tools” to sift by hand, but honestly, it took a little longer and more effort than the method I will describe next.

A couple years ago, Aaron attached some hardware cloth to scrap wood for another project he was working on. It just so happened that it made an absolutely perfect worm castings screen! It consists of a wood frame with half-inch hardware cloth over it, attached using wide flat-head cabinet screws. Heavy-duty staples would work as well.

We used 2×6” wood pieces because that is what we always have on hand (scraps from building raised garden beds!), but any size lumber pieces would work. A bamboo stake supports our screen on the more open side of it, but you could totally make a four-sided wood frame instead. Clearly, it’s nothing fancy.

Four images. They show a small wood frame (about 2x3 feet) made with 2x6 boards, with wire hardware cloth mesh over the frame. The images show the process of dumping clumpy brown worm castings on top of the screen, a hand moving it around to break it up and force it down through the wire screen, and a plastic tote below the screen to catch the finished worm castings.
Our super-fancy worm casting screening system. Hey, it works! The large bits are left behind, leaving only the finer, fluffy, finished worm castings.

Place the screen frame on top of a plastic tote or other container that will catch the screened worm castings. Dump some on, push it around to sift it, and let the worm castings fall through. Repeat as needed until all of it is sifted and separated. I use my hands, but you could also use a trowel.

The holes in half inch hardware cloth seem perfect for the job! The resulting screened worm castings are nice and fluffy, with any large chunks broken up. Large bits of matter are easily caught by the screen, and can be put back into the worm bin. Worms may get through the screen, or may stay on top. Either way, you should be able to easily see and sort them.


Now you have finished, fluffy, ready-to-use, perfectly harvested worm poop.

Two large male hands are cupped together, holding as much finished worm castings as possible. The hands are over a plastic tote full of harvested worm castings. They're rich, dark brown, moist, like good fluffy soil.
Freshly screened worm castings.

How to Use Worm Castings

If you’re wondering “what do I do with worm castings?”, the answer is: SO MANY THINGS! Add the castings directly to your raised garden beds or other garden soil as a rich natural fertilizer. They also help to improve soil aeration, drainage, and moisture retention. We like to add a little handful to every planting hole when we are transplanting new seedlings outside. Also, worm castings are a great addition to seedling start mix when you’re starting plants from seed. Put a few scoops around the base of fruit trees. Or, give your houseplants a special treat!

One of the great things about worm castings is that a little goes a long way! By using even a small amount in your garden, you’ll see the difference. On the other hand, you really can’t “overdo it”! They are not “hot” like other fertilizers. Meaning, worm poop cannot burn or shock your plants. In my humble opinion, the more the merrier.

One of our absolute favorite ways to use worm castings is to make actively aerated compost tea (AACT) with them. Check out this post all about how to make AACT!

We try to add castings to our garden in every way possible. If you do the same, I promise your garden and plants will thank you tremendously for your effort!

Check out this demonstration video to see just how quick and easy harvesting and screening worm castings can be!

Check out our YouTube channel for more videos by clicking here!

See? Easy peasy.

I hope you found this post helpful in your vermicomposting journey! Please feel free to ask questions, and spread the love by sharing this post.

DeannaCat's signature, with "keep on growing"


  • Lisa

    Do you have any issues with fungus gnats in your worm bin? I just recently got an ingestion and working my way thru getting it under control. Love to hear your opinion or experience.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Lisa, we don’t typically get fungus gnats in our worm bin. The gnats are attracted to moist environments so try and make sure your bin isn’t getting overly wet. I also recommend keeping brown paper bags or burlap draped over the top of your worm bedding which may keep the fungus gnats from laying eggs in your bedding and freely flying around. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Deirdre Davis

    Thanks so much for the detailed video and article. Even though I have been keeping a worm bin for a few years, I always seem to learn something new or some way to improve on my system. So, a couple questions…

    I usually end up harvesting the castings all at the same time. I just read your comment on a good way to store them. I hadn’t done that (or been sifting them) and have ended up with large clumps of very hard dry castings. Any ideas on how best to rehydrate them? They are too hard to just break up. I would like to use them in the garden and for transplants. I have done aerated worm tea but we’re not watering right now with all the rain.

    Our bin is a horizontally-cut half of a plastic 55-gallon drum. I thought we needed a space on the bottom so we used the sides of a plastic milk crate to create a flat bottom against the curved drum. We have a spicket on the side that we used to remove any accumulated leachate and the drum is built on a stand at a slight angle so it would drain out. I then used some old weed cloth as a liner to keep the worms contained in. So it’s ok to put the worms straight into the curved drum? I just wanted to double check before doing this. Thanks so much.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Deirdre, if you have clumps of dry castings you can just moisten them with water to rehydrate them to store with the rest of your castings. It sounds like your worm bin should work out with a partition of sorts on the bottom so food/bedding and worms won’t get into the lower portion. Although, it is best to moderate the moisture of the bin so there isn’t too much liquid or leachate, even if you have a catchment system set up so it can drain away, the bedding/food may be too wet if there is a need to drain liquid. Yet if you are having trouble keeping your bin moist enough (since some of your castings are dry clumps), the catchment system may be causing the bind to dry out at a faster rate. Anyway, a couple things to think about and good luck! Let us know if you have any other questions.

  • Jill

    Thanks for the post! I saw that you harvest small batches of worm castings for what you need. I was hoping to harvest a larger quantity for future seed starting projects over the next few weeks. If I do this, how do I properly store it?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Jill, I would store it in a storage container with a loose fitting lid, ff you have a bag of soil that you recently emptied, you could use the empty bag as well. Keep it in a cool, dry, and dark location until you are ready to use it. Thanks for reading and good luck!

  • KimberlyD

    Hi there! Thank you so much for all of your very informative posts and videos! I aspire to have a garden like yours! I started a tote style worm composting bin a couple months ago using your tutorials and I think we are ready to harvest the “black gold”. My question is, once I remove the castings from the one side of the bin, and then the other side the next week, what is left in the bin for the worms? Is the harvesting of the castings only meant to be done twice every few months? Do I start the whole process over once I have harvested both sides of the bin? Thanks for your help!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello KimberlyD, we just harvest the castings as we need them. If you choose to harvest all of your castings within a few weeks, just add more coir, soil, or compost to the bin so the worms have a place to live and start the process all over again. Thanks for reading and good luck!

      • Kelly Britton

        Mine are also super moist and wet! No mold either. How did you do with yours? Did you let them dry out or just kind of make it work with the screen?

        • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

          Hi Kelly, we just make it work with the screen, the castings separate pretty easily if you use your hands to run the castings over the top of the screen. Once the castings are screened, the result is a really nice worm compost as the clumps break down into a finer material that is easy to work with.

  • Ashelen

    Hey Deanna!

    Just harvested my first batch of castings that I started 2 months ago with your amazing tutorial! Do you let your castings dry out a bit before sifting? I’ve noticed mine are pretty moist and get stuck to the sifter. I think I have a good balance in my bin going because there is no smell or molding to suggest too much moisture and worms are repopulating like crazy, but perhaps I should be a bit easier on the water throughout the breakdown time so that the castings are easier to sift? I welcome your thoughts!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Glad you enjoyed the tutorial so much, sometimes the castings are more moist, we just use our hands to move the castings over the screen and it helps them sift through. Thanks.

  • Melissa

    Thanks for this post! I just started a worm compost bin last year, and I didn’t know how to harvest the castings for this year’s garden. This was very helpful!

  • Ashley

    Could you do a follow up on what your bin should start to look like after a week or two of setting it up? I just set my worm bin up this weekend and want to make sure I now what to keep an eye out for ie moisture level, too much/too little food

    • DeannaCat

      Hi Ashley! Sorry for the delay! Your comment got sent to spam somehow. How is your worm bin doing? A week or two later, it will still basically look the same way it did when you set it up, minus some of the food being eaten by the worms. It takes several months for a noticeable change in composition and build up of castings. As I said in the “How to Start a Worm Bin 101” post, I only add water if it seems really dry, which isn’t often. The food debris we add is usually moist enough to keep them happy. There are also tips in that post about food – like, they should go through their food in about a weeks time. If it sitting around much longer than that and getting moldy, it is too much food for them to handle. If they’re out within a week, they need more! I hope that helps!

  • Alison

    Thanks so much for this post! Just ordered my worms from Uncle Jim’s with your coupon code! Excited to get started 🙂

        • DeannaCat

          We don’t add a bulk of new bedding, but we continually add browns/bedding with almost every feeding – a little handful with every batch of food that goes in weekly. That is essential to maintaining and healthy, well-balanced bin!

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