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How to Harvest, Dry, Trim, Cure, & Store Homegrown Cannabis: The Ultimate Guide

Ahhh, the moment we’ve all been waiting for. You have proudly, legally grown your own beautiful, sticky-sweet cannabis plant, nurturing it from seed or seedling, and it is finally mature and ready for harvest! Or wait… Is it? If you aren’t sure, then this article is for you! While the harvest, trimming, and curing practices may vary slightly from grower to grower, there are definitely some tips and best practices we’ve learned over the years that I want to share with you.

Read along to learn how to determine when your cannabis plant is ready for harvest. Then, we’ll go over the process for properly drying and curing your finished cannabis – to ensure it’s at that perfect “just right” stage: not too dry, but not so wet that it may mold during storage! I’ll also share tips about trimming, talk about long-term storage, and let you in on how we use our cannabis. Basically, everything you need to know.

If you’re new to growing, or simply want to learn more about how we grow and tend to our cannabis plants, be sure to check out these articles too:

Now on with the show, shall we?

A man looking at the camera who is sitting at a backyard patio table with two large cannabis plants in fabric grow bags towering behind him. There is another cannabis plant in the foreground and also various other potted plants. The man is enjoying a beer while a vaporizer is resting next to the glass of beer.


How to Determine When To Harvest Cannabis Your Plants

Numerous indicators will signal when your cannabis is nearly ready to harvest. Each plant and strain is unique, so these signs can vary, but here are some general things to look for:

  • The leaves will begin to yellow, curl, and some will probably fall off
  • Buds will be plump and developed, and no longer appear to be growing larger
  • As the buds swell, the branches will become heavy and hang more

An image taken from the rooftop of a house towards a backyard patio, there is a tall cannabis pant stretching all the way to the center of the image, the plant has yellowing leaves and swollen  buds. There are two younger and smaller cannabis plants in the background amongst raised garden beds with various types of kale growing among other plants as well.
The colas on some of our big Maui Wowie girl, getting close to harvest time. You can see the branches are starting to sprawl under their own weight, and some of the fan leaves are dying. The girls in the distance were started a couple months later, and are just starting to plump up. Yep, this photo was taken from the roof!

Time is not the best indicator, because this will vary depending on the strain, your location, growing conditions, and the type of plant. For example, sativa cannabis plants typically have a longer flowering period and later finish than indica strains do. We typically grow sativa-dominant plants, starting seed in late April to May and typically harvest the cannabis in October. Autoflowering cannabis plants live and grow in a timing universe of their own… We’ll talk more about them in a moment.  

Personally, the most reliable indicator that we pay attention to is the cannabis trichomes.

What are Trichomes?

You know all those shiny, sticky, wonderful-smelling crystals you can find all over your cannabis flowers? Those are trichomes. They play an important role in the plants natural defense mechanisms, and also contain the thing we’re all after here – cannabinoids. 

The actual definition of trichome is “fine outgrowths or appendages on plants, algae, lichens, and certain protists.” Originating from the Greek word “Tríchōma,” meaning “growth of hair,” these tiny microscopic mushroom-looking protuberances look like something out of a science fiction novel. But they are actually the very factories that produce the hundreds of known cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids that make our favorite cannabis strains potent, unique, and effective.


An image taken through a jewelers loupe of a cannabis bud. The plants pistils and trichomes are illuminated in the magnification and natural sunlight.
Hundreds of clear trichomes, as seen through a jewelers loupe.

Monitoring Your Trichomes to Signal When to Harvest Cannabis

While it requires a little closer look, the appearance of the trichomes is the best way to determine the stage and condition of your cannabis plant. More specifically, pay attention to trichome color and opacity. Because they’re so tiny, you’ll want to use a jewelers loupe as a magnifying glass to examine them. Aaron starts keeping an eye on them even before the aforementioned signs begin. Throughout the growing cycle, the trichomes will change from clear to milky and cloudy, and eventually to amber.

As a general rule of thumb, when the trichomes are very clear, the cannabis plant is still immature and the THC is less developed. Harvesting cannabis at this stage may result in a more speedy, racy, less smooth and comfortable user experience. When the trichomes change from clear to fully cloudy, that is when we like to harvest cannabis. Or even a tad later, as described in the “when in doubt” bit below. This is when the buds are now at a very well-balanced stage of development. 

On the other end of the spectrum, if you let the cannabis continue to grow too long and the trichomes turn all the way amber, the result is often a more lethargic, heavy body high. I don’t know about you, but I am not a fan of “couch lock”! Some people prefer a more sedate and sleepy vibe. If that is the case, I suggest you grow strains that are known for those attributes in the first place, rather than trying to push your cannabis plant to an overly mature state by prolonging the harvest. 

When in doubt, harvest cannabis when the plants trichomes are primarily cloudy and a little amber, rather than a mixture of clear and cloudy. More growers have the regret of harvesting their plants too early as opposed to too late. 

A man is looking at a mature auto flowering cannabis plant through a jewelers loupe. The plant has swollen buds and yellowing leaves, some of which are starting to fall off the plant.
Aaron checking the trichomes on one of our autoflower plants.

Determining When to Harvest an Autoflower Cannabis Plant

Figuring out when an autoflower plant is ready for harvest is a bit more tricky. They don’t always lose their leaves. Their trichomes change from clear to cloudy and amber, but not always as obvious or evenly. Yet some oddball strains never turn amber at all! It isn’t as easy to confidently say “Yep, you’re ready to go!” as you would with a regular plant, so you have to simply do your best to judge.

Autoflower breeders will usually provide a timeframe, such as 12 weeks from seed to harvest. This can help provide you a general idea of when the plant will be ready, but it isn’t set in stone. We have found that our autoflower cannabis plants almost always take a couple weeks longer than predicted. But if the breeder says “this plant takes 11 weeks”, if you hit the 14th week, it is likely time. Chances are, if the buds are nice and swollen, and some of the trichomes are looking cloudy for at least a week, you can pull it then.

A hand is holding a freshly harvested auto flowering cannabis plant by its main stalk. The plant is still fairly green with only shades of yellowing on some leaves.
See? Unlike the autoflower Aaron was examining above, this auto plant was turning only slightly yellow (and this photo was taken on a foggy day, increasing that look) but otherwise wasn’t losing leaves or turning brown – yet it was definitely ready!

How to Harvest Cannabis

It best to harvest cannabis plants in the early morning hours. When the time is right, many cannabis growers simply chop the entire plant down at once. That is certainly one option, and something we do with autoflower plants for sure! When it comes to our big girls, sometimes we harvest cannabis plants in sections instead. Why? Well, for a couple of reasons…

In our experience, the buds on the upper branches become ripe and ready for harvest faster. Therefore, we may choose to cut the main stalk about halfway up – in order to remove the top portion of the plant only – or cut off individual upper branches first. This will provide more time and sun to reach the lower flowers, and allow them to fatten up for another week or so.  

Taking the plant in sections also spaces out the timing, effort, and room required for drying and trimming too. This helps make the next steps a bit more manageable, especially if we are harvesting several large plants.

When we finally harvest the lower portion, we cut the stalk with a small hand saw down at the soil level or just below. Following a “no till” and recycled organic living soil practice, we leave the roots in place inside the grow bag! The root ball will decompose, feeding the worms and soil over the next several months until the following growing season. 

An example of a partially harvested plant. The top portion of this Cookie Wreck was ready to go, but the bottom limbs needed a little more time. So we only cut off the top portion of the plant to hang dry inside. The lower limbs were cut about a week later, and the stem/roots left in place in the grow bag.

What About Flushing?

If you read other websites instructions on how to harvest cannabis, you will often see a section about flushing the plants prior to harvest. We don’t flush our plants because the way we organically grow cannabis does not require it. In contrast, flushing living organic soil essentially strips it of the complex ecosystem you worked so hard to build in your soil! It defeats the purpose.

However, many home growers and most commercial growers use chemical fertilizers and pesticides that get absorbed into into the plants vascular system, and in to the buds. Those plants will require a “flushing” period. This is where the plants root ball and soil is repeatedly flushed with water for about two weeks prior to harvesting, to help rid the plant of built up chemicals and salts. If not flushed, the bud will burns really harsh and tastes unpleasant. Hmm… I wonder why? If you need instructions on flushing, see this article.


When to Trim Cannabis

I could have put this trimming section either here, or after the “How to Dry” section to follow, because you can do either! Some ganja farmers insist on trimming their finished plants before they dry – also called a “wet trim” or ‘trimming wet”. On the other hand, many cannabis growers prefer to wait until they’re dry. Others periodically trim in the middle of the drying process, or do a little of both. It really all depends on your schedule and personal preference, which you’ll develop with time.

Trimming can be really tedious and time-consuming, so we go after it whenever we have a chance! And by “we”… I mean Aaron. He has more free time in the afternoon than I do (which is still limited) so he’ll usually grab a semi-dry hanging branch to work on here and there whenever he can, hoping to get it all taken care of before it is time to cure. 

We always remove at least the largest fan leaves while the plant is still fairly wet and hanging dry. This aids in air flow and drying, and also reduces the amount you have to trim off later. 

How to Trim Cannabis

We find it easiest to trim off at least some of the larger, prominent fan leaves while they’re still fairly wet. Removing bulky leaves helps promote drying. Additionally, as the leaves dry they will curl around themselves and the buds, which makes it more difficult to slip the trimming snips in there. On the other hand, after the cannabis has dried, the leftover leaves can become so brittle and loose that they are easy to flick off with the end of your snips or even a toothpick.

When it comes to trimming, perfection is not the goal. Not in our opinion at least! We grow for personal use, family, and friends. We don’t need perfectly manicured buds, nor do we have the patience for it. Plus, there are trichomes and THC on some of the leaves! Therefore, we hardly bother with trying to remove the “sugar leaves” – the smallest ones coming out from the center of the buds. Yet we do trim away the larger, non-sugary leaves that are attached to the main stem around the buds.

Before, during, and after trim. We remove all larger leaves (attached to the main stem within) but only roughly trim off the smaller leaves that are coming out from the middle of the buds themselves. After trimming up a large COLA or branch, Aaron usually breaks them down further – off the main stem into individual nugs for curing and storage.

Cannabis Trimming Tools

In regards to tools, I highly recommend these precision trimming snips. They make the job much easier! We have several pairs, and use them extensively both for cannabis and in the garden – like for thinning seedlings. They even come in a non-stick option.

I also suggest investing in a “trim bin” to trim your cannabis over. It is ergonomic, with dips for your arms. The bin has two parts: a screened upper section to catch all the leaf debris that you’ll likely discard, and a lower compartment that collects trichomes/keef that falls through the screen. Keep that! Sprinkle it on top of your bowls, or use it to infuse homemade canna oil! (Post coming on that soon)

We compost our excess leaf debris, both in a passive compost pile and in our worm bin. Yep, the worms love it! Smart little buggers.

A two way image collage, the first image is a black plastic bin sitting on a table with a mesh screen built into the middle of the bin. A hand is holding a pair of trimming scissors over the top of the bin. The second image is a black plastic bin that has collected kief/fallen trichomes on the bottom of the container, it looks dusty or like someone spilled spices in the bin.
Our favorite trimming snips, and trim bin. Look at all that keef and crystal that gets collected under the screen!


How to Dry Your Cannabis 

After they are cut down, cannabis plants are traditionally hung upside down to dry. As the cannabis dries, the THC converts from a non-psychoactive state to one that is psychoactive. However, you don’t want to rush the drying process! THC also slightly degrades with drying, and buds that are dried too quickly will experience a more significant decomposition of THC than those that are allowed to dry more slowly. 

An ideal time to dry cannabis is around 5-7 days. However, the time it takes to reach the ideal dryness (explained below) will vary depending on your climate and drying location. Also, the condition of your plant will play a role, such as how fat the buds are, how many fan leaves are still attached, and so on. 

One plant broken down into individual branches, hanging to dry from a “clothes line” in our spare room. Note that we keep the window covered with a dark sheet to block most of the light. The top image is just to show the set-up. We also use an herb drying rack to set any loose buds or smaller branches on. Yes, it does smell quite strong in the room! Yet with the door closed and a towel stuffed below the door, it prevents the whole house from smelling.

Ideal Cannabis Drying Conditions

It is best to dry cannabis in a temperate, relatively dark location. Light also degrades THC, so keep those drying plants out of direct sunlight! Good air flow is also very important. You’ll want to provide a fan to increase air circulation in the room and create a constant light breeze, but avoid pointing the fan directly at your plants – unless you’re in a very hot and humid climate. Even then, keep the breeze on the light side.

The ideal humidity level for drying cannabis is about 45-55%. If your humidity is lower than that, keep the fan extra low or omit it altogether to avoid overdrying your buds. We’ll talk more about how to measure humidity in just a moment. Serious growers, or those in particularly challenging climates, may use the assistance of humidifiers, dehumidifiers, heaters, or air conditioners to achieve that sweet spot.  

Excessive heat can also dry out cannabis more quickly.  If possible, hang your cannabis to dry in a climate-controlled location – not in an outdoor shed, garage, or other spot that is prone to extreme temperature swings. A temperature right around 70°F is ideal, though anything from 60-80°F is adequate.

We dry our cannabis in a spare room in our house along a clothes line, or in the spare shower. It is easiest to break the plant down into branches and spread them out a bit, as opposed to hanging the whole damn thing like a dying Christmas tree. We use this combo thermometer/hygrometer in our drying room to assess the conditions. 

How to Tell When Your Cannabis is Dry Enough  

If you are able to dry your cannabis in an environment with the ideal conditions described above, it will likely be done in the suggested time frame of 5-7 days. To assess if your cannabis is dry enough to move on to the curing process, test the humidity level of the buds themselves! You’ll need a humidity meter, also known as a hygrometer, to do this. The hygrometer will be used during curing as well. For inside jars, we use these cigar hygrometers. 

The goal is to get the humidity of the flowers down to about 60-65% by the time they’re ready for long term storage. Therefore, I recommend to start the curing process when your cannabis is in the range of 62-68% humidity. With humidity over 70%, the chances of mold developing in storage is far greater! Additionally, the buds will only get more dry with time. 

When you think the cannabis is fairly dry, clip off a few sample buds. I suggest taking a nug from a couple locations on the plant to get a nice average. Place the buds inside a sealed jar with the hygrometer inside as well. Close up the jar and get a reading. If the humidity shoots to 70% or greater quickly, they’re definitely not ready to cure! On the other hand, if it is hovering right around the sweet spot, allow them to stay sealed in the jar for 24 hours to get a true reading. If after 24 hours, it is within the target range, proceed to curing. If you find the humidity has creeped up, allow the plants to continue to dry. Check back again in a day or two. 

A hand is holding a jar of cannabis flowers/buds with a hygrometer inside the sealed jar, showing the temperature is 72 degrees Fahrenheit and a humidity level of 63%.

If you haven’t trimmed yet, do so before moving on to curing – keeping in mind that may take a few days too, and the weed won’t just stop drying for you in the meantime. Therefore, I suggest trimming in small batches and adding it to sealed jars as you go.


What is Curing Cannabis

Do not overlook the importance of curing! Have you ever noticed that some cannabis smokes really smooth and tastes absolutely amazing, while others are more harsh and flavorless? Sure, a little bit of that has to do with the strain or growing conditions… but the main factor that makes weed wonderful or woeful is: if it was cured properly! No, the crummier stuff isn’t just “old”. Old weed can still taste good and smooth too! In addition to the final flavor and experience, curing also ensures the cannabis will store well long-term and retain quality. 

Curing is essentially a continuation of the drying process, but in a more slow, controlled environment – such as in sealed mason jars – and occurs for up to two months. Meaning, once the cannabis is dry, it isn’t necessarily ready to enjoy at its prime yet. Ideally, you should allow the cannabis to cure fully before enjoying it. Sure, you can sample some early here and there of course, but super fresh bud is not going to be the same as the stuff that has been allowed to cure.

Proper curing stops the degradation process before volatile compounds like terpenes and cannabinoids evaporate or transform into less favorable compounds. Additionally, cannabinoid synthesis (the process of creating those valuable chemicals) continues to take place even after harvest!

Colorado Pot Guide

I also recently learned that during the curing process, bacteria works to break down the chlorophyll in the plant material. Chlorophyll is what makes the plants nice and green in color, but also contributes to a harsh smoking experience. Therefore, less green finished nugs isn’t necessarily a bad thing!

How to Cure Cannabis

Once you are able to obtain a humidity level of about 62-68%, put the trimmed buds in airtight containers, such as in a sealed mason jar. We use these half gallon jars. Store the containers in a dark, temperate place. Now, over the following weeks, periodically burp the jars. By “burping the jars”, I don’t mean a quick open-and-close of the lid. Leave the lid off for 10 to 15 minutes, and then re-seal the jar. The purpose is to allow some air exchange – to introduce oxygen and release moisture or other off-gassing substances.

How often should I burp the jars while curing, you ask? Some growers burp their jars one to two times per day during the first week or two. It is especially important to burp frequently if your cannabis is on the higher end of that humidity range, and leave the lids open even longer – up to an hour. On the other hand, we usually get our nugs down to around 63%, so we burp a little less frequently. We aim for once per day, but sometimes miss a few days. It isn’t the end of the world. 

After the first couple of weeks, a burp just once per week is great – for the following month. After a full 6 to 8 weeks of curing, you can reduce the burping frequency to once per month. At that time, you also don’t need to worry as much about the length of time the lids are off. A shorter burp is fine.

There are a few things you’ll want to pay attention to during the curing process: 

Keep a hygrometer inside at least one of your containers. You can rotate it amongst jars if needed, or use a few of them. Try to position it in a way that is visible through the sides of the container. If the humidity inside the jars begins to climb to 70% or over, take the buds back out of the jar for a day or two. Spread them out somewhere with good airflow, such as on an herb drying rack, screen, or even on cardboard. 

When you open the jars to burp them, take a sniff! A slight ammonia aroma is a sign that the cannabis is too wet and is starting to spoil. A strong ammonia odor or visible mold are indications that the cannabis was much too wet, and is probably now ruined. Yet if you are using a hygrometer, you shouldn’t run into this issue.

On the flip side, if your cannabis has become too dry (less than 60%), you may be able to help it – with the assistance of these Boveda packets! Originally designed for the cigar industry, Boveda packets can be used to re-introduce moisture to overly dry cannabis. You can also keep them with your buds during long-term storage to regulate humidity, which may be particularly helpful in hot, arid climates. They come in various target humidity levels that they help to achieve or maintain, for example a 65% packet, 63% packet, and so on.


How to Store Cannabis Long Term 

Once your cannabis has finished curing, you can shift to long term storage. For us, this looks no different than the curing stage – except that we aren’t opening the jars as often. We store our cannabis in the same half-gallon jars they were cured in. Choose any air-tight container, and store it in a temperate, dark location. It is recommended to quickly burp the jars about once a month, but we don’t stress that part too much. If you’re getting into your stash to use it, the jars are being burped plenty then. 

You have probably seen that some people do vacuum/seal and even freeze their weed. We don’t find this necessary, or even preferable, Just how frozen and defrosted food doesn’t taste as good as fresh food, we’d rather keep the buds out – more fresh, and easy  to monitor. We also aren’t huge fans of the idea of plastic touching the buds the whole time. On the other hand, if you are giving weed away, that is a different story. We do sometimes use plastic then. Either way, I don’t suggest fully vacuum sealing. Sucking all the air out of the package  totally crushes the buds! If anything, use the seal feature only.

A hand holds a half gallon mason jar full of cannabis flowers, there is a hygrometer inside showing a temperature of 77 degrees Fahrenheit and 65 % humidity.
10-month old bud, still soft, sticky, and ranking in at 65% humidity.

In summary, when cannabis is properly harvested, dried, cured, and stored, it can stay fresh, tasty, and potent for up to a year – just in time for the next growing season! Check out the photo above! That is our cannabis harvest from last fall, and it is still measuring 65% humidity. The color and chlorophyll will naturally fade, and THC may degrade slightly, but it still smokes and feels quite wonderful. 

Speaking of smoking…


Using Your Homegrown Cannabis Harvest

To clarify, we don’t actually “smoke” our cannabis. At least not in the traditional sense. We use a high-quality vaporizer. It heats and delivers the desired cannabinoids and terpenes without actual combustion of the flower. Combustion (burning) the cannabis is more harsh on your throat and lungs, and it simply doesn’t do your bud justice. It totally destroys the flavor, and overheats the cannabinoids and terps to a far less efficient and effective temperature. We also make canna oil and capsules, but that is a whole different post for another day!

Here is an article all about vaporizing, which goes over the science and safety behind vaporizing cannabis. It also explores the differences between smoking and vaping, between using whole flower and concentrates, and how to make the most efficient, effective, safe use of your herb.

In short, the Firefly 2+ vaporizer is pretty much the best thing on the market. We used the Firefly 2 for many years, and just upgraded to the 2+ when it came out a couple of months ago. It is the safest for your lungs and body (no heavy metals, like other vapes!), can be used for flowers or concentrates, and exudes a controlled and wide-range convection heat on every draw – to get the most out of our your bud. No other vape uses that technology. It is efficient, effective, sexy, and the flavor is insanely good because you are actually tasting your cannabis at its full potential! 

How you choose to consume your cannabis harvest is ultimately a personal decision. Our thought is: after all that hard work to grow beautiful organic homegrown cannabis, why turn around and burn the hell out of it?

A hand holds a Firefly 2+ vaporizer, there are cannabis plants in the background and the Firefly light is shining green, showing that it is ready to be used for inhalation.
Our favorite vaporizer: the Firefly 2+

That wraps up our Ultimate Guide on processing your homegrown cannabis.

I hope you found this article interesting, informative and useful! If so, please pass it on to your friends – to the left of course. You may also like this article about how to activate (decarboxylate) raw cannabis to prepare for to make homemade cannabis-infused oil, edibles, or soothing topical salve. Feel free to ask questions or leave feedback in the comments!

DeannaCat signature, keep on growing.


  • Melissa

    Your homestead looks so beautiful. It’s always a delight when you post something new. I’m a first time grower and your articles have been incredibly helpful. I refer back to them often! My question is about curing my plants. I couldn’t jar my buds at the ideal time and now that I do have them in jars, they read 40% humidity. 🙁 Did I ruin my harvest? Hope you do an article about diy balm, for muscle pain. 🙂

      • Melissa

        Thanks, yes I saw the packets but because the humidity level was so low I thought it was a lost cause. I will get the packets, thanks for your response 🙂 Quick question, will the packets need to remain in the jar or do I pull them if they can get to an ideal humidity level. Many thanks!

  • MJ Blanchette


    been watching my 3 plants for days to make sure that our colder, wetter weather wasn’t going to lead to mold or bud rot. today i found that one of my CBD plants suddenly has lots of it, but the two others do not. i’ve trimmed the infected spots, sprayed with alcohol and crossed my fingers. i’d be happy to harvest the whole thing now, to avoid the same fate for the rest of the buds and the sake of the neighboring two plants, but they’re just not quite ready.

    two questions:
    1. should i do it anyway?
    2. should i quarantine (to the best of my ability) this plant and not allow it to dry in the same room as the other two healthy plants?

    as always, thanks so much for your sage advice!


    • DeannaCat

      Hey lady. Aaron doesn’t think the mold will spread to other plants, if it just the kind that is deep inside the buds (not powdery mildew on the leaves). However, he also said that when he found a plant with rotting buds, no matter how much he trimmed away it seemed to keep coming. He suggested that it may be best to just pull them early rather than waiting and risking it, especially if it is getting colder and wetter out. Unfortunately folks in tricky climates like yours sometimes do have to harvest earlier than they’d hope. Another option is to harvest some of the more ripe and ready buds/branches now to save them, and allow some of the less mature stuff go a little longer – knowing that is a risk. Going forward, keep your eyes our for faster finishing/flowering strains or even ones that say they’re resistant to mold is possible! I hope that helps! Good luck!

      • MJ

        hey! just thought i’d follow up here, as i’ve actually learned a lot from other people’s questions and your responses, so…
        as it turns out, there was a teeny tiny amount of mold — the bigger issue, much to my surprise and chagrin, was pest damage. ick! (i’ll spare you the deets about the boring one that i found). while all in all, it wasn’t nearly as bad as it could have been, i needed to lob off some of the nasty ones so as to eliminate any, um, poop. yep, poop — just like you described in the pest post. as a newbie, think i was so proud of my fat, healthy girls, that i was unaware when late in the game, and long after i’d gotten lazy about the BT spray that there was actually a small problem. it all adds up to way less than 5% of the haul, but trust me, i’ve learned my lesson. please thank Aaron for his input … and i wish you could see my current half gallon jars of curing herb — it’s a beautiful sight! thankfully, i can safely let the rest grow on until i see a bit of that amber we’re after.

        question: at some point, a post (even just on IG?) about the differences in growing THC vs. CBD??

        thanks Deanna. i’m a broken record, i know, but seriously, you’re the best.
        xo MJ

  • Tina Kolpakowski

    Hey Deanna!

    I found you just in time to get some suggestions for drying and curing my cannabis. I definitely cure the weed I’m going to smoke, but I make a lot of my cannabis into an olive oil infusion in my crock pot. Do you think there is any benefit to a proper cure if I’m only going to throw it in the crockpot? Does proper curing have a benefit in terms of terpenes, etc?

    I am so glad I found you guys! I looked around on the rest of your site and it looks beautiful!

    Thanks, Tina

    • DeannaCat

      Hi Tina! I am glad you found us too, and welcome! I would say that proper curing is beneficial for all cannabis, no matter the desired end use. Sure, part of is has to do with how smooth it burns and long it lasts in storage – but those are just a few perks among many benefits of curing – including terpene and other cannabinoid development. I wouldn’t worry as much about the precise humidity if you’re going to process it soon, but I would suggest allowing it to dry and cure for at least a bit after harvest as opposed to chopping it all down and throwing it in the crockpot right away. I hope that helps!

  • MJ Blanchette

    hey Deanna. i keep referring to this article over and over again — so helpful. my question: how do you feel about mesh drying bags for those with limited space? okay to use?

  • MJ Blanchette

    wowzers — another stellar (and timely!) post by Deanna the Great!! been pouring through this, collecting my supplies and watching for the cloudy, amber trichomes daily at this point. wondering if you might offer a mini post to supplement this one — (maybe a guest post by Aaron??). would be great to see a few more visual examples of buds that are ready to harvest vs. not quite there yet, trimming process, how you actually hang them and — wait for it — what are your methods and practices for keeping everything well tagged and labeled so Maui Wowie isn’t sharing a curing container with Gorilla Glue! knowing you, you’ve already developed a organized method that would put the most fastidious organizer to shame!

    can’t tell you enough: you’re the best!
    many thanks.

    • DeannaCat

      Hey MJ! Yes, we actually plan to come back and edit this article to add more photos… Unfortunately, we didn’t do the best about documenting the trimming or hanging process in the past, and this years harvest isn’t here yet, so I had to make due with what we had! Honestly though, in regards to what the buds look like at harvest time, it is somewhat hard to tell from a photo. They’re nice and fat like the images I already shared here, but I don’t know if I can get a good photo of the thrichome differences. I’ll try! And as far as the labeling goes – you could write on tape on the jar. We use these wine glass pens to write directly on the jars, and they stay put very well. May need to reapply after a few months of handling. Want to know the crazy part? Aaron doesn’t need labeling at all. He can tell who is who by their appearance and odor. It’s nuts! When they’re hanging, he keeps the branches of each type in separate sections. I hope that helps! We’ll get some updated photos together soon. Xo

    • Esteven

      It’s great to have a lot of info in this page. Really thanks that’s a huge help for the people the we are stating to be organic in all ways. I have a question about how to clean my plan after do the harvest. I’m on the way to create a living soil bags and as you say we don’t want to kill our micro life flushing at the end.. But my question is if there is microlife on the soil when you near to arrive on the flushing time how you know that the plants start the final process of cleaning starting to eat their own nutrients and don’t keep it.. It’s first time doing bio organic and as you say and I know if you use nutes you must clean it at the end or u will smoke it. In my case I only feed my plants with tts aloe an compost tea with adds. How yall do? Just adding water the last weeks? Thanks for your help.. Your garden looks amazing yall doing a super great job thanks for help me

      • DeannaCat

        Hi Esteven. We will still feed the plants mild kelp meal tea, aloe, or malted barley towards the end. Since flushing isn’t necessary with the type of organic approach we use, we don’t feel the need to go with plain water only for weeks before harvest. If you haven’t looked them over, you may like to read our “how to feed cannabis organically” or our “how to grow cannabis organically” articles which go in to those methods/thoughts a little more. I hope that helped answer your questions! What you say, with just aloe and compost tea – that sounds plenty mild to continue to use through the end (though in the final weeks it may not be entirely necessary).

  • Jen

    Wow I learned so much from this article, thank you! I was wondering though if all these methods, especially the living soil, could be applied to indoor grown plants?

  • Joey

    Very nicely written, informative article. Geez those TrimBins are expensive, but I guess it is an investment, like you said. I only had two seeds to start with. One grew into a monster female and the other was a male. What do you with the males? I ended up throwing it into the compost bin.

  • melly

    Girl, you have such a gift. Thank you again, for sharing your knowledge with the world and making it a better place.✌🏻💗

  • Nicole Novak

    This article is so wonderful. It’s better than any High Times article because you cover all the points needed all in one fell swoop and explain things in a manner that anyone growing for the first time can easily follow along! Your links to your preferred tools and accessories make it easy to prepare for harvest season. BRAVO!!

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