"How to Grow",  Cannabis

How To Grow Cannabis, Organically: Soil, Seeds, Containers & Care


The topic of “how to grow cannabis” has such a funny vibe about it. If you browse around online, you’ll see there are many cannabis growers with extremely strong opinions about “the right way” to grow cannabis, though all of their methods vary… Esoteric language, expensive supplies, and complicated recipes or instructions are often used, making it a very intimidating and confusing subject for new home growers.

I am here to hopefully take some of the mystery out of it for you! The methods we choose to use for growing cannabis here at home are pretty dang simple! Sure, there are some steps to follow and supplies to gather, but growing cannabis is not all that more complicated than growing high-quality organic food at home. Or at least that is how we approach it. All you need is rich healthy soil, a large container, and either cannabis seeds or started seedlings – called “clones”.

Read along to learn about our preferences for soil, containers, seeds, and how to get started growing cannabis at home, organically!

Keep in mind that our goals are not all about high yields. The goal is to grow safe, high-quality, organic cannabis that we can utilize and enjoy with peace of mind – knowing how it was treated from “bean to bowl”. It is about quality over quantity, though we end up with more than enough anyways! There will be follow-up posts to come regarding ongoing care, like routine fertilizing, organic pest control, and how to harvest, dry, and cure your cannabis too.


A giant top of a cannabis plant, also called the COLA. It is in full bud, and a hand is behind it, showing just how large it is. There are resinous sticky crystals and brown-red hairs.


Note:

This post is intended for people living in states who are legally allowed to grow cannabis at home, either medicinally or recreationally. If you have any questions about this, please refer to your local cannabis regulations. You may also enjoy reading my post, “Introductory Words on Cannabis: Legality, Uses, Stigma & Quality Control”.  Today’s post is also geared around growing cannabis naturally outdoors, as I will not touch on light deprivation or indoor grow set-ups.


Let’s dig in.


THE PERFECT CANNABIS SOIL


If you checked out our post about how to build the perfect organic soil for raised beds, our methods for building the perfect cannabis soil isn’t all that different.  We’re shooting for something that is rich, biologically active, full of micronutrients, and has an excellent balance between moisture retention and drainage. Reference that raised bed soil post if you want to dive deep into detail, but otherwise here is a quick-and-dirty for cannabis soil:

I’m going to give you all two options below. One is a little more involved, which is crafting your own soil from scratch. This is what we do. The second option uses pre-made soil, and requires less ingredients and steps upfront.

Either way you choose to go, please note that we follow a no-till method. That means the soil is a one-time upfront cost, aside from some amendments you’ll need on an ongoing basis. Those last a long time before needing replenishing too! At the end of a growing season, the mature cannabis plant is cut down at the soil line, and the roots left in place to decompose over the winter with the aid of worms and light moisture. The soil is used year after year in the same container, improving with age. This is also called ROLSrecycled organic living soil.

Two large 25-gallon fabric bags full of soil are sitting inside a plastic shed.
Here are two of our 25-gallon cannabis grow bags, full of recycled organic living soil. These are kept in a shed over winter (and some outside too), and kept alive with an occasional light watering. The soil is reused the following season.


Option 1: Our Organic Cannabis Soil Recipe


Combine the following ingredients. If you plan to fill several large containers (like grow bags – discussed below) then it may be easiest to mix all of these in a very large tote or even spread out on a tarp, and then add some to each bag. Note that it is best to pre-moisten the peat moss before mixing it with everything else. Peat tends to be hydrophobic when dry, and can make your soil less likely to absorb water well if it is mixed without wetting first.


Soil Base:

  • 1 part Canadian sphagnum peat moss (We often use Aurora Innovations or Premier.)
  • 1 part high quality compost  (We love Malibu’s Biodynamic Compost, but it’s only available on the West Coast. There is a similar East Coast option by Coast of Maine. You could use aged homemade compost, or shop around to see what is available. Maybe there is a local worm farm in your area?)
  • 1 part aeration additive (We prefer 3/8-inch Lava rock, aka lava cinders. You could use pumice or perlite instead.)


Evenly mix in the following amendments:


*In the recipe above, when I mention the amendment amounts “per cubic foot of soil”, I mean the total combined volume including peat moss, compost, and aeration. Also note that all of these amendments are things we also use in the garden, and last many seasons!


Curious about what all these things are for?

Kelp meal contains over 70 different vitamins and minerals. It helps promote overall plant health, vigor, and tolerance to stress, pests ,and disease. It is also a renewable, sustainable resource – so that’s a huge plus.

Neem meal enhances microbial activity, making your soil even more alive! It also strengthens root systems, and can help control unwanted nematode populations, fungus, and soil pathogens.

Crab or Crustacean meal is high in chitin, which stimulates the soil food web and beneficial microbe activity. It may also help combat root knot nematodes. This meal contains both macro and micronutrients as fuel for the plants.

Rock Dust contains micronutrients and trace minerals that are essential for a plant’s core biological processes to work at their strongest, such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis.

Gypsum contains calcium and sulfur, and helps the plant better utilize and uptake potassium, which is one of the key macronutrients that all plants depend on for life. In the “NPK” ratio for all fertilizers, the K stands for potassium. Adequate potassium availability and uptake enables plants to photosynthesize, produce energy and important enzymes during growth, and also assists with water uptake and drought resistance.

Oyster shell flour is an excellent source of calcium for the plants, as well as phosphorus. Adequate calcium carbonate protects plants from heat stress, makes them more resistant to disease and pests, strengthens plant cell walls, and increases nutrient uptake and overall vigor. Oyster shell flour also acts as a pH buffer.


Here is a little video of our organic living soil in action:

View this post on Instagram

Now that is organic LIVING soil! 🙌🏼🌿❤🐛 This one is for all the fellow soil and worm nerds out there ✌🏼🤓 . Curious about what you're seeing? Here's an excerpt from a past #deannascanna post ~ "Here's the skinny on soil: We make our own using 1/3 high quality compost (our vermicompost and some Bu's @malibucompost), 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 aeration additive like pumice or 3/8" volcanic rock. The soil is amended with: neem, crustacean, and kelp meals (all at about 1/2 cup per cubic ft of soil), gypsum and oyster shell flour (1 cup per cubic ft), basalt rock dust (2 cups per cubic ft), and biochar, about 5-10% of the total volume of soil. Aaron made and mixed the original soil in a huge pile on a tarp to fill the grow bags. After the season, we recycle and store the organic living soil either in the grow bags themselves (no till practice) or empty the smaller grow bags into a large tote to keep alive and moist over winter. The soil is writhing with worms who continually aerate, fertilize, and improve the soil. . We use smaller 5-7 gallon grow bags for the autoflower plants (separate post on autos later) and 25 gal bags for the big girls. They're top-dressed with a couple inches of vermicompost, and mulched with barley straw, yarrow, borage, and comfrey from the garden." . They're top-dressed malted barley powder once a week (which the worms love!) and watered with neem meal and kelp meal teas w/ aloe vera. Separate detailed post about feeding specifics under #deannascanna too . For info on our compost systems, including vermicompost, check out #deannacompost 💩🤘🏼

A post shared by Deanna ~ Homestead and Chill © (@deannacat3) on


A note about peat moss:

Peat moss gets some flack for being not very sustainable. However, it also gets some of the best reviews and results for growing cannabis. Cannabis likes very slightly acidic soil, which peat moss naturally is. It is also an incredibly common ingredient in almost all bagged soil, so it’s hard to avoid in the gardening world. Aaron put together our soil before we were fully aware of the environmental concerns. Because we are reusing and recycling it each year, the best thing for us is to continue utilizing it!

Some people who grow cannabis choose to replace the peat moss portion of this recipe with coco coir, which is a more renewable, sustainable material. I can’t speak to its effectiveness because we haven’t used it for cannabis, though we do add a little coco coir to our raised beds sometimes, and also use it as bedding in our worm bin. Honestly, we have heard not-so-great results and read numerous studies that show coco coir has inferior performance to peat moss.


Option 2: Use Pre-amended Bagged Soil


If mixing up all those amendments sounds a little too “extra” for you, you could do the following instead:

Use mostly pre-made, high-quality, bagged organic soil. If you have access to it, try to add in a little rich aged compost, worms, worm castings, and/or aeration too! Experiment with building your own soil, with a premade base. Check out this post on how to start a super simple worm bin, if you’re in need of worm castings! They can also be purchased.

For this method, you could skip a lot of the additional amendments upfront, though you’ll still want to add some as the growing season progresses. Cannabis is a hungry plant! The choices and availability of bagged organic soil options will vary depending on where you live. If you can, get top-of-the-line stuff – it is going to be more pre-amended for you.

Examples of popular cannabis soil brands to keep an eye out for are Roots Organics products, Fox Farm’s Ocean Forest/Happy Frog, or Recipe 420 by E.B. Stone. Even some of the Kellogg or G&B Organics could work well, especially when premium compost is added. Check to see if there are any hydroponic stores or “grow shops” in your area. Those stores cater to cannabis growers, and are more likely to carry premium bagged soils over the stuff at big box nursery centers.

Now that you have a soil choice in mind, what are you going to put it in?
 


CONTAINERS FOR GROWING CANNABIS


We prefer to grow our cannabis in grow bags, and I’ll explain why below. If you want to stick your plants in garden beds or right in the ground, be my guest! This is just what works for us. Check out how to build a durable and deep raised garden bed here.


Benefits of Grow Bags

The preferred container for growing cannabis for many people, ourselves included, is in large fabric grow bags. As opposed to a hard-sided container, they promote better aeration, drainage, and even moisture. Solid containers like 5-gallon buckets could be used, but have the tendency to be drier on top and soggy on the bottom. Grow bags also accomplish something called air-pruning. When the cannabis plant’s roots near the edge of the bag, the exposure to air naturally prunes them back. This is a way to keep the plant happy and healthy in its given container, naturally limiting itself and keeping the roots healthier. In contrast, a solid container allows the plants roots to continue to grow in circles around the container and themselves – becoming root bound. This is not a good thing.

Grow bags are great because they allow people to grow cannabis in a variety of living situations, be it on a patio, indoors, or in a greenhouse. By using a container, you have ultimate control over the soil you choose to fill it with.

Additionally, you can make them mobile!  We make rolling dollies to sit all of our cannabis grow bags on, out of 2×6’s and heavy-duty casters. See the photos below. That way, we can easily roll or rotate the large (and heavy!) plants out of our way or into better sun as needed. If you do the same, make sure you get casters that are rated for at least 50 to 80 pounds of weight per wheel, minimum. Ours are 2″ and okay for the flat patio, but 3-inch wheels probably would have made it even easier to move.

Three images in one. One shows a homemade wood dolly - a square set of boards with two inch casters  or wheels attached to the bottom. Then it shows a large black plant saucer that sits on top of it, from several angles. The grow bag sits on top of all of it.
Our DIY dollies with casters. Three redwood 2×6 boards are held together by a supporting 2×4″ in the opposite direction, screwed into each board. To catch runoff, we use large plant saucers. This one is 25-inches (top rim to rim) and can hold the 25-gallon grow bags that are 21″ at the bottom. Lava rock is sitting in the bottom of the saucer to keep the grow bag from sitting in standing water.



Grow Bag Brands and Sizes

The bags we prefer to use are the Smart Pot brand, or GeoPot. These are extremely durable and long-lasting. You get what you pay for.  We have used cheaper grow bags in the past and they rip and degrade within a season or two of use. Smart Pots will last for years and years. We have bags that are three years old and still as good as new. Call me silly, but I also love being able to choose tan or brown colored bags. I like a pretty garden space and prefer the look of those to the stark black choices.

The size of your grow bag will dictate the size of your cannabis plant, and its health. Obviously, the size of your space will determine how big of bags you can use too. The smallest I would suggest for a traditional photoperiod plant is about 15 gallons. We generally use 20-gallon or 25-gallon bags for those big girls.

If you have a lot of room and want really large plants, you could go even larger!  On the other hand, if you are growing autoflower cannabis plants, a 5-gallon or 7-gallon bag would work just fine. Not sure what the difference between a photoperiod and autoflower cannabis plant is? Check out this post that explains it all!

Okay, we have our soil and our bags… now on to the most important part of this post: the cannabis itself.

Aaron sits at the back patio table with a beer. Many plants are around the patio, including three large cannabis plants. They're all on wood dollies and moved aside while we're enjoying the patio.
See how big they can get? Those are our Maui Wowie girls. Also note the DIY dolly below the grow bags. We can easily roll them aside when we want to enjoy our patio space, and put them more in the middle when we’re not outside.


SOURCING CANNABIS


Where to get cannabis seeds or clones

I have to start this section with a disclaimer. Cannabis is still federally illegal. Therefore, even if you live in a state that has legalized marijuana, shipping cannabis seeds and products across state lines is technically still illegal. But it is commonly done nonetheless. To my knowledge, people buy cannabis seeds online fairly easily and without issues. However, if cannabis is legal in your state, the most safe and “by the book” way to procure seed or started plants (clones) is from a licensed cannabis store.


Here are a few reputable places that discreetly sell cannabis seeds online:


*Again, for the record, I am not intending to support illegal activity. I am simply sharing information.


What kind of variety or type of cannabis should I get?  

Cannabis comes in many shapes and sizes! Obtaining feminized seeds or plants guarantees that they will flower. Aka – they’ll grow buds. “Regular” seeds could grow up to be males. They’re pretty useless unless you want to breed plants – the males will pollinate your females, make them produce seeds in the buds, and reduce their THC development. Most people cull the males before they produce pollen to avoid this.

Sativa-dominant plants are typically more uplifting and energizing. Sativa plants also get taller, lankier, and take longer from seed to harvest. Indica-dominant strains finish a little faster, pack on fatter buds, and are generally shorter and wider plants. These make them a preferable variety for northern climates with shorter growing seasons. Indica is also known for more of a mellow, sleepy, couch-lock kind of vibe. We generally prefer uplifting, happy, energetic sativa-dominant hybrids – ones that are balanced with enough indica to keep things smooth, relaxing, and still make for a great night of sleep. “Maui Wowie” is a long-standing favorite here, and “Rosetta Stone” is our new go-to lately.

For a super-quick growing season and small, manageable plants, you could try autoflower cannabis types. Autoflowers are available in feminized, sativa, and indica options too.

Beyond all of these broad categories, each strain will also have unique attributes that may make it more or less desirable to you. Find what suits your needs! What works for us may not be what works for you. To read all about the difference between sativa, indica, and autoflowers, check out this post.

A short bushy autoflower cannabis plant, just starting to produce buds. It is inside a greenhouse with other small plants around it. Only a couple feet tall.
Autoflower cannabis plants in the greenhouse, in smaller 5 gallon smart pots. They take up far less space, and time!


CANNABIS GROWING CONDITIONS


Timing

In most places, cannabis seeds are started in mid to late April, and transplanted outside in May. Basically, they need to be protected from frost and harsh conditions – just as any other seedling does! Depending on the strains you are growing and your summer daylight hours, the average cannabis plants will go into flower once the days begin to shorten and it receives less than 12 hours of sunlight per day.

Most outdoor cannabis plants will be ready to harvest in September to October. The exception to this would be for autoflowers, which can start and finish their entire life cycle in as short as 3 months.


Starting cannabis from seed

We prefer to grow from seed. Once we obtain seeds, we treat them pretty much like any other garden seed!  They’re germinated in 4” pots full of seedling start mix, inside on a heat mat. Keep the containers covered and moist until they sprout. Ideal germination temperature is around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. After sprouting indoors, the cannabis seedlings move into the greenhouse to live under grow lights for a few weeks before going outside.

To read more in-depth information about how we start seeds, check out our seed starting 101 post!

Four small cannabis seedlings are in 4" round pots, in a greenhouse among many other pepper and eggplants. There is a grow light above them.
Cannabis seedlings in our greenhouse, being treated just like the peppers, eggplants, and other garden plants!


Note that you do not need a greenhouse or fancy supplies to start cannabis! If you don’t have a heat mat, I suggest pre-soaking the seeds in non-chlorinated water overnight before planting. This will aid in germination. In lieu of seedling start mix and little pots, another option is to germinate the seed inside a moist root riot cube, then plant the whole cube in a grow bag after it sprouts. By starting them in late April to early May, most locations will be adequately warm enough to go right outside after germination.

Once they’re a few weeks old and the weather is right, we transplant our seedlings outside to their final large grow bag. When they are transplanted, we sprinkle some mycorrhizae in the planting hole and on any exposed roots. Mycorrhizae enhances nutrient uptake, and disease and drought resistance. If you did have your seedlings indoors under lights for a few weeks, don’t forget to properly harden them off before moving them outside! This helps to strengthen them and prevent transplant shock.

If you are growing from clones instead, you can skip straight to potting them into grow bags outside.

Two large fabric grow bags on a patio garden, with small cannabis plants inside. There are raised beds in the background. There are flowers, colorful swiss chard, and mustard greens.
Some young cannabis plants, recently transplanted into their final large grow bags. The small support stakes will be replaced with larger ones as they grow.


Sun and Support

Full sun is best! If you have a wide open location that receives full sun all summer and into fall, you’re in luck. We have changing sun patterns, with some shade from our house and trees to contend with. That is the beauty of putting the grow bags on dollies – we can move them around to receive the most sun possible as the seasons change.

Provide support for the main stalk with a sturdy stake. As the plant gets larger and starts to put on bud weight, you may find the need to further support individual branches. This will depend on the strain. Some growers get crazy with their support systems!


Water

In regards to water, the goal is to provide consistent, even moisture. Do not let the soil completely dry out between watering, but don’t drown it out either. As with many things, this will vary a lot depending on your climate. If you’re in a very hot and arid place, you will need to water more frequently than someone in a cooler coastal climate like ourselves.

As the plant grows and the root ball gets larger, it will drink water faster and therefore need more, and more often. I will write a follow up post about watering and fertilizing (which often go hand-in-hand) throughout the growing season soon.

If possible, use dechlorinated water. It isn’t a deal-breaker, but the plant and soil microbes will definitely appreciate it. If you are on city tap water, allowing a bucket of water to sit out overnight can help the chlorine dissipate. We mostly use our captured rainwater. Another option is to use a simple hose carbon filter to remove chlorine.


Mulch

Mulch the top of your grow bag to maintain a healthy soil. We love using biodynamic accumulators that not only provide moisture retention, but will later break down into more nutrients and energy for the cannabis. Some examples of biodynamic accumulators are borage, comfrey, yarrow, and dandelion greens. Fava bean greens are also excellent for green mulching, since they’re nitrogen fixers! If you don’t have access to these types of plants, straw or hay will work.

A close up of a cannabis plant leaf, with the container of soil and mulch in the background. The mulch is very colorful, with yarrow, comfrey, borage, lavender, dandelion greens, and straw.
I don’t know about you… but to me, that mulch is looking super sexy! Yarrow, comfrey, borage, lavender, dandelion greens, and straw.


Another popular mulch option is to use an organic cover crop seed mix, and lightly working it into the top inch of soil when you first plant your cannabis seedling. As it gets watered, cover crop will grow under the canopy of your plant. It becomes a living mulch, and also enhances your living soil food web. As it grows tall, you can “chop and drop” mulch with it. That is when you trim it and leave it in place to decompose as green mulch.


And just like that, you’ve given your cannabis a stellar start! You’ll be enjoying your own homegrown organic bud in no time.


Once you have your cannabis off to a strong start, come learn about the ways we fertilize our plants! Also, how to keep the pests at bay:


Last by not least, when the time comes, here an article all about processing your cannabis: “How to Harvest, Dry, Trim, Cure, & Store Homegrown Cannabis: The Ultimate Guide”. When IS the time right to harvest? You’ll learn that here too. This guide is basically everything you need to know, from the best timing, temperature, humidity, methods, and more!


I hope this all took some of the mystery out of growing cannabis for you. Please feel free to ask questions and pass this post along. To the left, of course. Wishing you the bet of luck with your growing adventure!


DeannaCats signature, keep on growing


28 Comments

  • Melissa

    I love your articles/blog and followed your instructions. This past spring I enjoyed my first ever harvest – thank you! My question is, now that my smart pots are plant-less, though I still occasionally water it to keep the soil alive, what should I do this coming spring? I originally started with EB STONE Recipe 420. What amendments should I add? And should I just top dress or mix it all up? I’m afraid I’ll hurt any soil structure I might have going. I’m a newbie to all this. TIA.

  • rob

    Hey Deanna, great website! I have a question regarding autoflowers. In your experience, are the buds just as potent as photoperiod plants? I’ve heard conflicting info.

    Thanks!

    • DeannaCat

      I don’t think so, no! Not that I have noticed anyways! Especially if they’re treated virtually the same as our big girls, in regards to soil, feeding, drying, curing, storage, etc. Those end steps are the most important when it comes to the final results!

  • Adrian

    I grew 2 Autoflowers in grow bags using your soil recipe! They did great and are now curing, can’t wait for the curing article!

  • MJ Blanchette

    hi there. i’ve been referring to these pot posts repeatedly — so, many thanks for all the hand-holding 🙂

    two part question:
    1. a friend told me that i should bemoving some of the lower leaves for airflow, do you agree?
    2. i never staked my plants when they were babies, and they still seem sturdy, but am i going to regret not staking them at some point? and if i try to stake them now, won’t i be damaging the root system?

    as always, THANK YOU!!
    MJ

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *