How to Grow Pineapple Guava (Feijoa): Cold-Hardy Tropical Fruit

Come learn how to grow pineapple guava, also known as feijoa (fay-oh-uh). The plants are low-maintenance, pest-resistant, and easy to train either as a shrub or tree. In addition to enjoying the delicious tropical-tasting fruit, these beautiful evergreen shrubs are excellent for ornamental landscaping or living privacy screens as well.

In this guide, I’ll share my top tips to successfully plant and grow pineapple guava including hardiness zones, cross pollination, ongoing care, harvest time and more.

I’ve been growing pineapple guava for over 10 year; they’re my favorite edible shrub in our garden! If you live in zone 7 or higher, you can grow them too.


Quick Facts About Pineapple Guava (Feijoa)


  • Pineapple guava (Acca sellowiana) is native to South America. Now grown all over the world, it’s especially popular in New Zealand and Australia where they call it “feijoa”.

  • Despite the name and tropical flavor, pineapple guava isn’t a true guava at all. Part of the Myrtle plant family, feijoa is a mere distant cousin of tropical guava and prefers subtropical conditions to thrive.

  • Pineapple guava (feijoa) thrives in temperate subtropical areas or warm, dry Mediterranean climates. It grows exceedingly well in California, the Pacific Northwest, Florida, Texas, and more. However, they’re quite adaptable and can deal with both extreme heat and cold in the right conditions. These cold-hardy plants can survive temperatures down to 15°F!

  • With excellent pest and disease-resistance, the plants are easy to care for.


A shallow wicker basket is being held up towards the sunlight, a sun rays streaking into the image leaving its mark. The basket is full of two types of guava, on the left there are green pineapple guavas, one of them has been cut in half widthwise showing the flesh hidden within. On the right there are many smaller yellow lemon guavas. Beyond the basket lies a garden of various flowering perennials, squash, turmeric, various trees, and shrubs.
A harvest of pineapple guava (green) along with lemon guava, from our front yard garden.

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What does pineapple guava taste like?


Feijoa has a unique flavor that is both exceedingly sweet and slightly tart. It is reminiscent of pineapple, banana, kiwi, and guava all at once – with a hint of piney mango, mint, and even bubblegum! Even better, pineapple guava fruits are rich in vitamin C, fiber, antioxidants, and B-vitamins. 


Growing Zones


Most resources say that pineapple guava grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8 – 11. However, I know someone with thriving feijoa plants in Tennessee’s zone 7!

Different varieties of pineapple guava are more or less tolerant to high heat or freezing conditions. See a full list of varieties near the end of this article. (Update: I’ve also heard from a gardener friend who grows the Nazemetz variety in Kentucky, zone 6b. Read more about how she pulls it off in the ‘winter protection’ section below).

Pineapple guava is also an excellent choice for coastal zones because it tolerates salt, including salty air spray and mildly saline soils.


A diagram of the United States with hardiness zones 8-11 highlighted with orange, peach, and yellow. This takes up portions of the entire West Coast, South West, to the South, and up into the Carolinas.

The orange, peach, and yellow area of the map represent USDA hardiness zones 8-11, where pineapple guava grows best.


Size and Growth Habits


Pineapple guava are large shrubs that can eventually reach 12 to 15 feet tall and wide, though they can easily be pruned to keep much smaller too. When pruned up into a tree-like structure, feijoa can reach 20 feet or taller over time.

Pineapple guava shrubs are evergreen, with silvery gray-green, oval, thick leaves. Combined with their handsome structure, appearance, and easygoing nature, they’re a popular plant for ornamental landscaping and privacy – fruit aside!

Be patient with your feijoa! The plants are fairly slow-growing, which makes it even easier to keep them pruned to your desired size and shape. Youn plants can also take several years to bear fruit, though timing can vary depending on the climate, cultivar, and type (e.g. started from seed, grafted shrub, etc).


DeannaCat is touching a limb of a pineapple guava, its branch is a fuzzy silver in color due to the growth being new. Its leaves are a waxy green silver color. When you grow pineapple guava, the older growth turns more woody and brown while the new growth is lighter green to silver.
Olive green on top, silvery gray on the bottom.
A pineapple guava grown into a single trunk style tree with a full bushy top, there are a few flowers amongst the silvery green leaves.
A young pineapple guava plant, trained into a single-trunk tree. This plant is probably three to four years old. Photo from Monrovia
A large pineapple guava tree growing in a front yard. The house is set behind it and the tree is taller than the roofline. The shrub emanates from four main branches that are bare of foliage until about halfway up the height of the shrub where it turns into a dense bush of foliage.
A very established pineapple guava shrub (tree?). This is significantly larger than any of our plants. My guess is that it at least 15 years old, if not older. Photo courtesy of Trees of Santa Cruz County.


Can you grow pineapple guava in a container?


Yes! Their slow-growing nature and leniency for pruning also makes pineapple guava very container-friendly. As with all potted plants, the size of the container will dictate the size and vigor of the plant. Choose a large container with ample drainage holes and high-quality potting soil to promote healthy growth. I’ve successfully grown pineapple guava in half wine barrel planters.


A back patio photo showing a patio table in the center. Beyond is a house with various plants, trees, and shrubs growing along its walls. An apple tree is centered in a large wooden garden bed, to the left there is cacti, fava beans, hanging jade, and parts of a bay laurel. To the right there are succulents and a pineapple guava shrub growing in a half wine barrel.
A feijoa growing in a wine barrel (far right) in our patio garden. That plant is about 3 years old.


Flowers and Fruit


Pineapple guava plants flower prolifically in the spring, dotting the green shrubs with spectacular sweet-smelling flowers. The flowers are white and pink with red firework-like centers, and the white petals of the flower are edible and delicious! They melt in your mouth much like cotton candy and marshmallows combined.

Birds and bees are highly attracted to the flowers, and help to pollinate as they visit. The wild birds in my yard love to eat the edible flower petals too. 

Following the spring bloom, pineapple guava fruit develop over the summer and ripen in the fall to winter. On average, feijoa fruit are about the size of a medium to large egg (3-4 inches, oblong shape).


A close up image of a flowering pineapple guava. The flowers have creamy white petals amongst a center that looks like a firework explosion of red pistils with yellow pollen balls at the ends of them. The plant has green waxy leaves. The sun is shining in from the background, illuminating the branches and foliage beyond.


DeannaCat is holding a large pineapple guava. Its waxy green exterior is shiny, beyond lies the front yard garden with a myriad of flowering perennials with purple, yellow, pink, and blue flowers. Beyond that lies garden beds that are full of young winter seedlings.
I remember being SO proud and excited when we got our first homegrown pineapple guava!


Pineapple Guava and Cross-Pollination


The majority of pineapple guava varieties are considered self-fruitful or self-fertile (e.g. Coolidge, Pineapple Gem, and Apollo) and should bear fruit without a partner plant. Yet for the most guaranteed and prolific fruit production, I recommend planting at least two pineapple guava shrubs in your yard. Cross-pollination from a partner plant will greatly increase fruit development!

Birds and bees naturally pollinate feijoa, but but it’s easy to hand-pollinate the flowers to help guarantee a good harvest too. (I’ve personally never needed to manually pollinate our plants to get fruit.) Simply use a small brush (e.g. paintbrush or makeup brush) to collect pollen from the flowers on one plant, and then go brush it onto the flowers of the other plant. Continue this back and forth between the two plants (or more). 


Feijoa hand-pollination demonstration from Jane Squier on YouTube


Starting from Seed, Nursery Plants, or Cuttings


You can grow pineapple guava from seed, a cutting, a small shrub from a nursery, or buy plants online. Starting from seed will clearly take the longest to mature. I’ve also heard some seed may not bear fruit ‘true to seed’.

The most surefire way to grow pineapple guava is to buy a young grafted nursery plant. That’s what I always do! I suggest giving your local nursery a call to see if they carry them. If not, ask if they’re able to special one (or two) for you. They may also be able to provide insight on what varieties do best in you area.

You can also propagate pineapple guava by taking a cutting from an established plant. Ideally, choose a cutting that is about 12 inches long, no thicker than 1/4-inch in diameter. Cut a young softwood branches near the bottom of the shrub. It should be fairly pliable, have at least 3 nodes, and a few leaves at the top of the stem. Dip the freshly cut end in rooting hormone solution, and then plant it in a light fluffy soil mixture – such as seed starting mix, or peat moss mixed with sand and sawdust and keep moist until roots grow in.


a close up of a pineapple guava shrub being planted in the soil, with a wire mesh basket surrounding the root ball for gopher protection
Planting a new pineapple guava plant from our local nursery. Though I’ve never had gophers mess with ours, I protected it with a basic gopher basket – just in case!


Planting Location and Sun


In most places, you plant pineapple guava in location that receives a full sun – yet they aren’t fans of prolonged intense heat. In my temperate climate, I’ve successfully grown healthy, productive pineapple guava plants in partial shade too. A minimum of 6 hours of daylight is suggested for the best fruit development.

In hotter climates where summer temperatures are regularly over 90°F, choose a location with dappled sunlight (preferably afternoon shade in the summer) or use shade cloth to protect them from excessive heat.

Pineapple guava are not big fans of high winds, so also keep that in mind when selecting their spot. Planting a feijoa shrub near a wall or fence can help provide protection from the wind, along with reflected heat and added frost protection in areas with harsh cold winters.


A pineapple guava growing amongst a fence line with various trees. The shrub has silvery green foliage that stands out amongst the greens and browns of its neighbors. When one decides to grow pineapple guava it is good to protect it from wind.
Nestled among other plants, near a fence and tall house, our largest pineapple guava shrub (about 5 years old) receives protection from wind and some shade.


Winter Protection


Pineapple guava plants are frost-tolerant but prolonged periods below 15°F can kill them. Frosts can also damage flower blossoms or ripening fruit. In zones 8 or lower, try to choose a semi-protected planting location (e.g. along a fence or house) that isn’t as exposed to the elements. During a cold snap, you can also protect your pineapple guava shrub with a bed sheet or frost cloth.

For example, my friend that is successfully growing pineapple guava in Kentucky zone 6b (Nazemetz variety) says she created a sheltered microclimate for it, by planting it near a south-facing wall and mulching generously. When it snows heavily, she wraps it in burlap and/or plastic to keep the snow off.


Soil and Mulch


Pineapple guava grows easily in average garden soil. For the best results, plant your feijoa in moderately rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. The one thing they will not tolerate is constantly soggy soil, so be sure to plant them in a location where drainage is not an issue.

Poorly-draining soil should be amended with horticultural sand, small volcanic rock, pumice, or other aeration additives to promote drainage. I also recommend adding some aged compost, worm castings, and/or quality bagged potting soil to improve the texture and nutrient content of the soil.

Finally, provide an inch or two of mulch around the base of the shrub to protect its shallow roots. 


a young, 2-foot tall pineapple guava plant planted along a fence line with fresh chunk bark mulch alll around it's base
A couple inches of bark mulch or wood chips will help protect and insulate the shallow roots.


Water Needs


Pineapple guava grow best when moderate water is provided. Aim for consistently damp, moist soil – but not soggy! Avoid overwatering (especially in winter months) as overly wet soil can lead to root rot or other related diseases.

Feijoa are actually quite drought-tolerant once established! However, a lack of adequate water can lead to poor fruit production. Under-watered pineapple guava fruit may be small, less juicy, or may drop from the plant before they fully develop. 


Routine Fertilizer


True to their slow-growing, easy-going nature, pineapple guavas grow willingly without heavy fertilizing. I usually apply a well-balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer around the base of the shrub once or twice per year. (Twice per year is best for pineapple guava growing in pots, such as during the spring and fall).

I like to use this organic all-purpose fertilizer, and replenish with a fresh layer of compost mulch as well. Routine feeding will encourage better flower and fruit production.


A before and after photo of the same rural fenceline, 5 years apart. The first image shows a row of about 10 very small shrubs, just planted. The next photo shows the shrubs have grown in so large and full that they're now blocking the 4 to 5 foot fence behind them.
5 years of growth. We planted two pineapple guava along with bay laurel, citrus, and pomegranate to form a nice privacy hedge along a fence line at our new homestead.


Pest Issues 


Pineapple guava are remarkably disease and pest-resistant, with little-to-no known issues. Despite dealing with my fair share of powdery mildew, aphids, cabbage worms, and other pesky critters in our garden, the feijoa goes unscathed. It is even deer-resistant!

I’ve personally never experienced rodents, raccoons, or opossums trying to eat the fruit. Wild birds do like to eat the flower petals, but that is more of a perk than a problem since they’re helping to pollinate.

In California, feijoa may occasionally have issues with black scale but can be treated with neem oil.  


A close up image of a flowering pineapple guava. The flowers have creamy white petals amongst a center that looks like a firework explosion of red pistils with yellow pollen balls at the ends of them. The plant has green waxy leaves.


Harvesting Pineapple Guava


Pineapple guava self-harvests when the fruit is ripe! Meaning, the fruits naturally fall from the shrub when it’s ready. (Thankfully they’re still a tad firm when they do this, so they shouldn’t get too bruised up.) Then I simply scout around the ground under the shrubs and collect the fruit. You could also set up a net, drop cloth, or tarp below the plant to catch falling fruit, and then give it a shake to help the process along.


How to Tell if Pineapple Guava is Ripe


Pineapple guava do not change color (stay green) when they are ripe. Once they fall from the shrub on their own, the fruit may still need a few days to fully ripen. Simply leave them out at room temperature until they reach your desired consistency and flavor.

Ripe pineapple guava will smell sweet through the thin skin. They can be enjoyed semi-firm, when they feel just a tad soft when lightly squeezed (like a perfectly ripe avocado). Or, some folks like them super soft – almost overripe. I prefer them somewhere in between. Try a few at different stages to see what you like best!


A white ceramic bowl lined with a copper ring and handles is sitting on a stump amongst agave and a perennial grass. The bowl is full of pineapple guava that are medium to large in size. One of them is cut in half lengthwise showing the whitish yellow flesh and gelatinous cavities. Grow pineapple guava so there is plenty to eat fresh or preserve.


Storing Ripe Fruit


You can leave ripe (or almost ripe) fruit out at room temperature if you plan to consume it within a few days. Otherwise, very ripe fruit can be refrigerated to prolong its shelf life, though quality will decline within a couple of weeks. Pineapple guava are prone to bruising and ‘going downhill’ quickly, which is part of the reason they’re not commonly sold in grocery stores.


How to Eat Pineapple Guava


To eat fresh pineapple guava, simply cut it in half and then scoop out the soft fleshy pulp from the skin with a spoon, as you would a passion fruit, kiwi or avocado. Some people eat the whole thing like an apple, skin and all! Though it is technically edible, I personally do not enjoy eating the thick skin.

Pineapple guava (feijoa) can also be added to salads, yogurt and granola, baked goods, smoothies, in homemade fruit shrubs, or even blended cocktails.


A wicker basket full of pineapple guava fruit. One of the fruit is cut in half along its equator and the inside flesh is on display. The flesh is a light white yellow in color and there are four gelatinous cavities amongst the firmer flesh.
DeannaCat is holding half of a fruit that has had its flesh scooped out into a spoon that is being held above the empty fruit shell.  The flesh is white with slight yellow and the flesh is fairly firm while also having four equally spaced cavities full of a more gelatinous material that also contains the fruits seeds which are undetectable when eating.


Preserving Pineapple Guava


If you have more fruit than you can consume fresh, there are a number of ways to preserve pineapple guava. Making guava jam is one especially popular method!

I love to blend the ripe fruit with coconut milk to create tropical guava popsicles using homemade popsicle molds. Or, you can simply freeze the fruit whole to process or enjoy later (though the texture won’t be as wonderful to eat plain once they thaw back out). 

Another idea is to blend the ripe pulp into a smooth thick cream, spread it out very thin on solid dehydrator trays or liners, and dry the pulp to create feijoa fruit leather! If you do not have a food dehydrator, you could try this on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and the lowest heat setting in your oven (though I personally have not tried that).


Pineapple Guava (Feijoa) Varieties


As I was doing my homework for this article, I came across far more varieties of pineapple guava than I knew existed! Cultivars developed in South America, Australia, New Zealand, France, the United States, and more… Here is a list of the most common or popular ones, but know there are even more out there!

  • Pineapple Guava (straight) – Not all pineapple guava have fancy or unique names like the varieties listed below. Those are all “improved”, specially cultivated, or grafted varieties. I’ve mostly grown straight pineapple guava, which are self-fruitful but can bear more prolifically with another partner around.
  • Coolidge – Self-fertile. Originally from Australia, but is now one of the most common varieties grown in California. This variety reliably bears prolific semi-wrinkled fruit. May bear fruit earlier than other varieties. Grows well in cooler coastal climates, and is also one of the best-suited guavas for the Pacific Northwest (including ‘Edenvale Improved Coolidge‘)
  • Apollo – Self-fertile, and will pollinate other varieties. Provides a deep pineapple-flavored fruit that ripens mid to late season. These fruit are highly productive, but can be more prone to bruising. The pulp is described as well-developed but slightly gritty in texture.
  • Mammoth – Produces the largest guava of them all – up to half a pound or larger each! The fruit are said to be incredibly tasty, have a hint of strawberry, slightly gritty pulp, and ripen early to mid-season. It is technically ‘self-fruitful’, but will bear more when planted with another variety (or use a flowering seedling) to provide cross-pollination.
  • Pineapple Gem – Small, round fruit of good to very good quality. Mid to late season ripening. Tree self-fruitful but bears heavier crops if pollinated by a second plant of another variety. This variety is best for warmer climates, and it does poorly under cool, coastal conditions.
  • Nikita – Great for smaller spaces or tidy landscapes, with a more compact growth habit. Produces large tasty fruit, ripening earlier in the season than others. Like Mammoth, Nikita is partially self-fruitful but will bear fruit more prolifically with another variety nearby.
  • Nazemetz – Originated in San Diego, meaning it takes well to hot weather! Produces large, pear-shaped guava with excellent flavor and quality late in the season, October to December. Only partially self-fruitful. Plant with another variety for best crop.
  • Trask – A spin-off from Coolidge. Like Nazemetz, this is another variety that produces well in warmer climates. Those two together make a great pollinating pair for increased fruit production. Bears medium to large quality fruit early in the season, with thicker skin and more grainy textured pulp than Coolidge.

See a more extensive list of pineapple guava varieties here.


An image of Aaron's outstretched hands full of of pineapple guava fruit ranging from medium to small sized fruit. Below there are two large bromeliad plants with waxy green leaves.


And that’s how to grow pineapple guava!


Now can you see why this fruit is one of our absolute favorites? Beautiful, delicious, and fuss-free… I hope this article got you excited to go grow your own feijoa too! Please feel free to ask questions in the comments below. Thank you for tuning in!


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DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

36 Comments

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Anna, yes you can grow a guava tree indoors through the winter if you have a location with full to part sun. It is best if you bring the tree outdoors once weather permits for spring through fall if possible before bringing it back indoors before the winter weather sets in. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Leif Borgman

    My big question is: WHEN should you plant them? I can get seedlings now in 1 gallon pots, but should I plant them now at the end of November? I am in Zone 7B and we get occasional around 30 degrees nights. Not expecting snow until Feb possibly.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Leif, since you experience fairly cold weather and even snow, it is best to let the plants get established before they experience that type of weather. I would plant them in the spring or very early fall to give them some time to get established. You would also be planting fairly small plants which wouldn’t hold up as well if they were larger and came in 5 gallon pots or larger. Good luck!

  • Kristin

    I moved to a house about 1.5 years ago and along with it came 8 mature pineapple guava shrubs. This is our second season of fruit. Before, they had been very under-watered and the fruit was tiny (most about the size of grapes). We put them on our newly installed drip irrigation and this season the fruit is noticably bigger (largest ones the size of kiwis) but it is definitely still smaller than average. Do you think it will take several seasons of being watered for them to produce larger fruit? Or do they still just need more water and fertilizer? (I’m in CA, San Francisco East Bay, and it can get very hot here and the soil is clay.)

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Kristin, your guavas most likely just need some time to regain their health. I would just give it time, our guavas were usually the size of fairly large kiwis or there about. Give them some compost tea and spoil them a little throughout the year while keeping them well watered and next year should provide better results. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Ocean

    I want to grow them so bad!!! No!! I don’t live in the right zone, metaphorically and spiritually. Do have guava kombucha in the store.

  • Brett

    Hello, I have a pineapple guava I believe was grown from seed ( I bought it from a reptile store actually) its about 5 or 6 years old. I have finally planted it in the ground this year and it’s growing very very well. But I am.concerned there is no flowering yet. I have no idea what kind it is. Would the plant probably.wait a season after being planted in the ground?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Brett, we have had fruit trees no matter the age that will usually take a full year in the ground to orient themselves to their proper fruiting season(s). It also depends on where you live, here in California, most of our pineapple guavas have just put off a bulk of their flowers which are now turning to fruit. As long as the plant is doing well, the flowers and fruit will eventually come, good luck and enjoy!

    • Nicole

      Hi, I bought a very young feijoa Kateri, I decide to plant it close to the corner of fence. What should be the distance from the tree to the fence? Thanks.

      • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

        Hi Nicole, it really depends on how much space you have to work with but 4 to 5 feet should be more than enough. Good luck!

  • vince

    At the end of last summer, I purchased a Mammoth Pineapple Guava. Placed it in a very large pot so that I can bring it indoors for the winter. I had it in the garage for the very cold months of November, December and January. I now have it in my house near a south facing window. All of the leaves have fallen off and some very small leaves started but then stopped growing. The small sprouts started as a healthy green color. I’m concerned that there is something wrong. Do you have any suggestion?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Vince, trees or shrubs will usually shed their leaves to conserve energy for their roots and main trunk in a crisis. Maybe the tree was shocked by the sunlight slightly if it was in a darker garage? I have seen guavas shed their leaves when they had a lack of water. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if over the next few months you start to see more healthy growth as the weather warms and you are able to bring it back outside. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • David Van Orden

    My pineapple guava was exposed 15-20 degree nights for about a month before I brought it inside. Will the branches with dead leaves recover? It is getting too big to bring inside but i live near Salt Lake, Utah zone 5

    Our you also growing figs? I have one planted in the ground 5 years ago. Still waiting for ripe figs

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello David, your guava should recover. Trees or shrubs usually first sacrifice leaves and branches before the roots and main stalk/trunk. We do have a few fig trees and they usually produce within the first three years if first planting a tree that is in a 5 gallon pot. As far as your fig tree is concerned, depending on the variety you have, Chicago Hardy and Violetta de Bordeaux are at least two varieties that are cold hardy down to zone 5 and will give you the best chance for ripe fruit. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Mandy

    Thanks for such an in depth article. I have just repotted a Feijoa plant into a half wine barrel which has one drainage hole in the centre. After reading your article I am now worried I should have put additional holes into it. The plant was also root bound and I cut some slits into the walls to try free some of the roots but it was still compact and now I’m worried I may have damaged the plant. Do you have any more advice on repotting? I have another plant in the same sized pot I am thinking about repotting but no idea the best way to do it. Thank you!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Mandy, the root ball should be fine and the plant should recover given time. Usually we prefer to add more holes to the bottom of half wine barrels since they are made to keep liquid inside. Depending on how large the hole is that you made, it may be just fine. Just be cautious of the moisture of the soil and know that the bottom of the barrel is even more wet. You could also pull out the Feijoa plant with the soil and add a few more holes to the bottom before replanting. We like to do at least 5 or 7 1/2 inch holes. Good luck!

  • Stacy Green

    To call you an “influencer” is an understatement! Lol I have purchase so many new to me edible plants and trees because of your suggestion and thorough information. Just today I went to my local small nursery and purchased two (unknown variety) pineapple guava!! Very excited as one tree/shrub already has a few fruit. Perhaps this fall I’ll get to taste my first guava! I’m a little nervous that my desired planting location will have too much sun but I’m all about that trial and error lifestyle. 🙂 Wish me luck.

  • Oriana

    Super helpful article. Thank you! I have a question. We planted a pineapple guava back in May. Around mid-July the leaves began to turn a spotty brown and then the lower two-thirds fell off. I know it’s an evergreen plant, and thankfully the foliage near the base has filled out again. Do you have any ideas what could have caused this?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Oriana, Not exactly sure what could have caused this. Usually trees, plants, or shrubs do this when they are shocked by transplanting, lack of water, or damage done by gophers. Though I am not sure what caused this for your guava, glad to see that it has recovered. Thanks for reading and good luck!

      • Oriana

        Gotcha. We have a LOT of gophers in our yard. I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re messing with the roots. We’ll investigate further. Thanks for the tip!

    • Megan

      Hello! Thanks for the info. I live in zone 8, but we get a ton of rain (PNW) in the fall, winter and spring months. If the soil is well drained, will this be an issue?

      • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

        Hi Megan, they should be able to handle the extra rain if the soil is well draining. They are fairly adaptable and if living in the PNW, plant them in a south facing location with protection from a fence or building on the north side of the planting area to offer it more protection.

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