Join Waitlist We will inform you when the product arrives in stock. Please leave your valid email address below.
Getting Started,  Seed Starting

Potting Up Seedlings: What, Why, When & How

If you started plants from seed, chances are you will need to pot up the baby seedlings before they get transplanted into the garden. Maybe even twice! Your individual potting up needs and timing will vary. It will depend on the size of the seedling containers you started with, how quickly your plants are growing, and how long it is from the time they sprouted until they need to go outside. The act of potting up, when done right, helps your plants thrive!

This article will discuss the what, why, when, and how of potting up. At the end of this post check out the demonstration video! It shows our process for potting up tomato and cucumber seedlings

If you’d rather skip the reasoning and timing behind potting up, click below to jump straight to the “how-to” and video.

Jump to the How To

An image of a dozen tomato seedlings in a greenhouse. The ones on the left are still in small 4" pots but are over a foot tall. The ones on the right have been potted up into larger 8" pots and look much better.
Today’s potting up victims. Those tomato seedlings on the left need to be potted up still! The ones on the right just were. Much better!

What is ‘potting up’ seedlings?

Potting up couldn’t get any more literal. It is simply the act of transplanting seedlings “up” into larger containers than they were previously living in.

To be honest, potting up is a task I dread for some reason. It isn’t all that difficult, but does take a little time and effort. Over all the other things I need to do around the homestead, this is one chore that I consistently put off until it’s urgently due. Knowing this about myself, we try to combat this and set ourselves (and plants) up for success from the very beginning – by starting seeds in larger containers. This reduces the urgency to do it so soon after germination. We’ll talk more about container sizes shortly.

Why pot up?

Potting up seedlings as they grow provides them the best chance to grow stronger and bigger, feel less stressed, and live their best life!

1. By potting up seedlings into larger containers, it enables their roots to continue to grow without getting root-bound. A root bound-plant is not a happy plant. When a plants roots are being restricted to the point that they start to grow in circles around themselves, they become tangled and “bound up”. This can reduce the roots ability to spread out and flourish after they’re planted out in the garden. Plant health is directly tied to root health, so this means the plants are also less likely to flourish.

A close up photo of a tomato seedling being lifted out of a clay seedling tray. It has a lot of white roots tightly wound around itself.
A root-bound tomato seedling, left in a too-small container too long. Photo from Orta

Plants with tight, bound root balls can be gently loosened during the time they’re transplanted. However, this could either help them, or harm them. Some plants don’t mind a little root-ruffling, and breaking up that ball can encourage the roots to spread as we want them to. However, some don’t take a liking to this treatment. They might even get a bit of transplant shock from it. Therefore, we try to prevent root binding in the first place, to reduce the amount we need to disturb the roots later.

2. Another reason to pot up seedlings is that as their roots grow larger, they drink more water, and thus dry out more quickly. You’ll notice that a small 6-pack full of soil and yet-to-sprout seeds will retain moisture much longer than a small 6-pack full of maturing, thirsty seedlings. Taking care of seedlings can be tedious enough, but especially so if they’re drying out on you every day!

3. Lastly, the potting up process feeds the seedlings! If you started seeds in straight seedling mix, or a mix with primarily seedling soil like we do, chances are they’re hungry. Seedling soil is very fluffy and pretty devoid of nutrients. Even if you have been feeding with an occasional dilute seaweed extract, the plants will definitely enjoy a slighter richer, heartier soil now!

When to pot up seedlings

The timing for when to pot up is going to vary from gardener to gardener, situation to situation, and plant to plant. The factors that influence the best time for potting up seedlings include their container size, the type of plant, when they’re intended to be planted outside, and how vigorously they are growing. There is no set rule like, “You must pot up within 33 days of germination”

Container size

The best time to pot up a seedling greatly depends on the size of container you started it in. Smaller containers, like those trays with dozens of cells each, are going to require potting up sooner. Plants will feel cramped and overgrown in those fairly quickly. As I mentioned before, we usually avoid starting larger vegetable seedlings in tiny-hole trays. By starting them in slightly larger containers, like these reusable 4” nursery pots, we don’t need to pot up until about 6 to 8 weeks after germination. After that, we’ll move them into 6-inch or 8-inch pots.

The various seedling containers we use. We’ll usually start seeds in the 6-packs or smaller round 4″ pots, and then pot up to the 6″ pots and 8″ pots as needed. All of the supplies we use are durable and reusable, which we sanitize between seasons.

Then why don’t we just start seeds in those larger 6 to 8 inch containers from the get-go, you ask? That way, we don’t need to pot up at all, right? Well, it’s not quite that simple. First of all, if you start seeds in huge containers, it’s going to take up a ton of space. You will not be able to fit nearly as many containers on your heat mats and under grow lights, which is pretty crucial during germination and the first few weeks of life. That means less plants, which is never a good thing.

Also, tiny seeds and seedlings don’t necessarily want to be swimming in a huge sea of soil. It is easier to overwater, and their roots might struggle to develop. They do like to be hugged, just a little. Plus, moving from a seedling start mix into richer soil is a great growth-encouraging step – one we’d miss out on if we started in big pots.

Type of plant

The timing for potting up also depends on the plant itself. Larger plants like tomatoes will more quickly outgrow their space than something smaller like herbs started in the same size container. Tomatoes grow much faster than peppers, so we always need to pot up our tomatoes earlier.

If you plan in advance, you could try to start certain vegetables, herbs, and flowers in appropriate size containers. For example, we start most of our flowers, herbs and leafy greens in 6-packs, and the other bigger veggies in 4” pots. We have found that by doing this, the flowers and herbs are usually okay in their 6-pack until the time they need to go outside, and may not need to be potted up at all. Squash grow very quickly and don’t like their roots disturbed. Therefore, we start those straight in larger 6” pots to give them plenty of space. We start them only about 3-6 weeks before they’ll be planted outside, so we don’t need to pot them up at all.

A seedling 6-pack of tulsi aka holy basil. The plants are still fairly small, healthy and happy in their current container.
This small, slower-growing Tulsi (aka Holy Basil) was started at the same time our tomatoes! It is still plenty happy in its 6-pack containers and will not need potting up.

Timing to plant outside

Another variable that impacts potting up is when your target transplant date is. If you intend to plant out all your seedlings in the next week or two, then don’t bother! That is, unless they’re getting really really overgrown and bound, then it might be worth it. Especially if planting is still two weeks away. Yet if your plants are showing signs of being cramped in their containers and it is still several weeks or more until plant-out time, pot those babies up!


A few weeks after germination, start keeping an eye on the bottom of your seedling containers. Are roots starting to poke through the bottom drainage holes? How big is the plant looking? Does it still look happy? Has it still been growing steadily, or has it slowed?

When the roots start to poke through the bottom of the container a lot, it is time to pot up into a larger size. Can’t see the roots sticking through the bottom, but the seedling seems pretty large? Carefully take one out of the container and look at its root ball! Sometimes they’ll start to spiral around themselves before they come through the bottom. I should also note that you don’t have to wait until the roots are coming through the bottom, or until it is close to being root bound. You can pot up sooner too! I just always seem to wait until the last minute.

A 4" nursery pot is being held up sideways so we can see the bottom of the pot. A few small fine roots are starting to stick through the bottom drainage holes of the pot.
Just a modest root peep show.

The moment we’ve all been waiting for…

How to Pot Up Seedlings

Find or obtain some containers that are slightly larger than the ones they’re already in. About twice as large is a good goal. If you’re going from super-tiny cells, even more than twice as large would be most efficient, reducing your need to do this again.

Now it’s time to give the seedlings some fresh, rich soil to play in! You could go two ways here. Again, this depends on your situation.

Soil for Potting Up

When we are potting up fairly large, established seedlings like the tomato in this example, we use a high-quality organic potting soil, straight from the bag. Potting soil is slightly more dense and nutrient-rich (often contains mild fertilizer) than the seed starting mix the plant was previously living in. At this stage in maturity, they can handle it! Not just handle it, but love it. Pre-moisten the soil if possible.

However, if you are potting up very small, less established seedlings that have thin fragile roots and no solidly formed root ball, they will probably like something a little more fluffy added in the mix still. In that case, it would be best to combine something like 60% organic potting soil and 40% of your favorite seed starting mix. That way, their tender roots meet less resistance when they’re trying to grow.

Add a little soil into the bottom of the new container, and gently ease the plant out of the smaller container without pulling on the seedling itself. Place its entire soil mass and roots into the new container. Then fill in around the sides with the new soil mix.

To Bury or Not to Bury? That is the question.

If the seedlings have gotten a bit tall and leggy, it is okay to plant most kinds of seedlings deep, filing soil up around the stem and burying it a bit. This is totally safe (and even preferred) for tomatoes. The portion of the buried tomato stem will actually shoot off new roots! You could also do this for other members of the nightshade family, including peppers, potatoes, and eggplant. Brassicas (the cabbage family, including kale, broccoli, and collard greens) and cannabis can also handle a little burying. Especially when they’re bigger and the stem is more firm. See the images below as an example.

6 photos showing the potting up process, using a large tomato seedling. The first image shows a tall seedling in a small 4" pot, with an empty container next to it, more than double in size. The next photos show the larger pot being filled with a little soil, the tomato seedling being put inside, and the root ball and stem being buried with several inches of new soil.
As you can see, we buried the tomato stem with several inches of soil. It will now grow roots from that portion of the stem. When we transplant it outside, we’ll bury it by another couple of inches in the garden beds too.

Other types of plants may not like this practice. The now-buried stem could rot and kill the plant. This is particularly true for beans and trees, so keep the soil line about the same as it was previously. I would also avoid burying seedlings that are still very small and tender, regardless of their variety. I have read mixes messages about burying cucumbers. Overall, I think it is okay but not as commonly encouraged as with tomatoes. If you do, only bury them up to their first set of leaves, or just a couple inches.

To avoid the need to bury seedlings and therefore any risk of rotten stems, the best practice is to prevent leggy seedlings in first the place. To do this, provide ample light and other ideal seed-starting conditions. If you’d like to learn more about seed starting best practices along with ongoing seedling care, read here!

An image of a freshly potted up tomato seedling. The plant is quite large, at least 20 inches tall, and is in an 8 inch pot. The photo is taken in a small greenhouse with other seedlings on the wood shelves around it.
My friend Amber is happy.

A Neat Potting Up Trick:

I learned a fun little trick a few years ago, which is demonstrated in the video and photos below. It can be used for potting up seedlings, especially ones that you do not want to bury the stems of). However, we most often exercise this trick when we are planting bigger plants like shrubs or small trees in to pots. The idea is to make a dummy hole, or a placeholder for the root ball, inside the container that the plant is being transferred in to.

Fill the new, larger container with the amount of soil you estimate should go below the plant. Then set the plants current container down inside the larger one. You can use an empty one, if you have something the same size on hand, or actually place the plant itself (still in the pot) down in there. Is it at the right level? Keep in mind things usually sink down a little after time and watering. If so, lightly pack soil in around the outside of the inner pot, creating a nest of soil. This trick works best with pre-moistened soil, reducing the likelihood it will cave in on you. Then you can pull out the dummy container, gently ease the plant out and into its new perfectly-sized hole!

By doing this, you are ensuring there are no air pockets and a nice amount of soil around the plant. Thus, it reduces the need to try to stuff soil in around it afterwards. Depending on the container or pot you’re working with, that can sometimes be difficult or awkward. It also reduces the jostling and possible shock to the plant being transplanted. Before we learned this trick, I don’t know how many times we accidentally overfilled containers and then had to pull or dig the plant back out to adjust the soil amount. If you’re working with a large, heavy plant, or one with a not-very-solid root ball, this can be a pain in the butt.

6 images showing the potting up trick. A dummy hole is created in the center of the final pot, by setting the smaller pot inside and filling soil around it. A cucumber seeding is put in the hole.
The dummy-hole trick. Look at how perfectly that cuke seedling root ball fits right in the hole! Lightly cover with a little more soil after, making sure it doesn’t have any voids.

After Potting Up

Give them a good water! We prefer to water from below, allowing the soil to soak up water from the tray beneath it. The seedlings may also appreciate some dilute seaweed extract in their water, which can help to ward off transplant shock. To read more about fertilizing seedlings with seaweed extract, check out this post. We sometimes also feed our transplants with a fresh aloe vera soil drench, either alone or mixed along with seaweed. Aloe also reduces the risk of transplant shock, and encourages robust new root development!

A hand covered in dirt, holding a one-gallon jug of seaweed extract up in front of all the freshly transplanted seedlings.
Who wants a drinky drinky? Mama’s buyin’.

That’s really all there is to it folks.

The freshly transplanted seedlings can now live happily in their new spot for several weeks, until they move in to their forever home – your garden. Don’t forget to harden off indoor seedlings before transplanting outside to prevent damage and transplant shock!

Check out the potting-up demo video:

Check out our YouTube channel for more videos by clicking here!


  • Eunice Suess

    Hi, I’m curious why not just plant the seed into the pot you were planning to pot up into in the first place so we don’t have to double our work? I’ve been wondering this for a while lol.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Eunice, that’s a good question! We actually pot up some seedlings and don’t have to pot up others. We start flowers, herbs, and greens in larger 6 cell containers and we don’t pot these up before planting out into the garden as they usually get to a fair size in the cell packs. We also start peppers in 4 inch pots and squash in 6 inch pots (squash doesn’t like to have its roots disturbed much) and those don’t require a pot up before we plant them into the garden either. The main veggie we pot up are tomatoes as they can grow quite large and vigorously and can be stunted if you don’t give them more root space. We also usually start 12-15 tomato seedlings so we initially sprout them in 4 inch pots where they end up in 6 or 8 inch pots, however, germinating seeds using 12-15 8 inch pots takes up about 5 times the space versus 4 inch pots.
      So in all, we’ve learned to start certain veggies in certain containers to eliminate the need to pot up seedlings but also allows us to start the many seedlings that we grow every season. Most people need to start their seeds on a heat mat as well and there may only be so much room for the containers which may lead them to start seeds in smaller containers. Anyway, it just depends on your system and the containers you have for your seeds. We’ve learned over time what works best for us with our schedule and set up. Hope that helps and good luck!

  • Sharyce

    Hi, looking for some advice on tree seedlings. I experimented with some apple and pear seeds last fall, placed them in some egg cartons filled with soil and kept mildly moist in garage refrigerator over the winter. Then brought them out the spring. They have quickly outgrown the original containers they were in so they’re roughly 4 to 6 inches tall. I took the task on of transplanting them into larger pots and relocating them to an area of more space because of the large number. While they are not directly outside they seem in a bit of shock and droopy also a few have turned slightly yellow on a few leafs.
    What options do i have to help them adjust faster???? Any advice and tips are appreciated. Also and advice to help them thrive is appreciated too, this is 1st time attempting plant growing project like this.
    Thank you

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Sharyce, the seedlings were likely root bound and unhappy from living in the cramped conditions of the smaller pots. They will likely rebound but it may take them some time. You can feed them compost tea (AACT) to give them a boost or mix 1/4 cup of kelp meal in 5 gallons of water and let steep for 24 to 48 hours before watering the seedlings with the water. Again, the plants may take a minute to adjust bet they will bounce back in time. Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out!

  • Jessica Davis

    Hi! I started all my babies this year in 2″ soil blocks, and have largely been happy with them. But some seem to be outgrowing the blocks wildly (I have schizanthus that is already 4″ tall, but won’t be ready to set out for over three weeks), and I’m wondering whether there is any utility to potting up some others to encourage faster growth (e.g., foxglove; almost ready to set out but really not growing great).

    Obviously, if they’re plants that require peat pots, should probalby err on the side of keeping in the soil block, but do you have any insights on whether it is beneficial to move some of these to larger containers–even just setting the blocks into the soil in the container, to allow them to grow more, but keeping the soil block “raised” so can still easily remove and put in ground when the time comes?

    REALLY need some advice. Thanks much for your blog!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Jessica, glad things have gone mostly smooth for you with the soil blocks. The seedlings out growing their blocks was one of the things that deters us from giving it a go. If you have small 4″ pots or larger, I would just pot them up into a potting soil of choice until they are ready to be transplanted outside. The seedlings may become stunted if their roots are exposed and don’t have anywhere to spread to. Hope that helps and let us know what you come up with and how it works out. Good luck!

  • nonit nanda

    Hi, Instead of repotting, can one just cut the bottom of the pot and then plant the smaller pot into a larger pot? The smaller pots are biodegradable and can be easily cut from bottom.

    Second question – watering the seedlings – should these be watered daily and how much in 60-80 deg outdoor temperatures?

    Thank you.

    • DeannaCat

      If using biodegradable pots you should just leave them and maybe carefully cut out the bottom to ensure the roots have easy access to the new soil and space. As far as watering goes, seedlings and most plants like moist soil. Most people have a tendency to overwater young plants especially. They will let you know if they are thirsty by drooping and slightly wilting, you can also assess how moist the pots are by picking them up. The pots with moist soil will be heavier than the pots with dry soil. Hope this helps and good luck!

  • Rachael Stevens

    Hi there! I’m a newbie and have cucumbers in 4” pots that are looking anxious to pot up, about 4” tall with some roots peaking out the holes in the bottom. Once I go to the larger container, do they still need lights?

    Thank you in advance!

    • DeannaCat

      Hi Rachael – If they’ve been under lights, I would keep them under until they transition to going outside. Have fun!

  • Jenna Congdon

    Hi! Quick question- how do you handle getting the tiny seedling out of your 10×20 seed trays? You can’t flip the whole thing upside down to tap them out, and at that stage they’re so delicate you definitely can’t grab the stem and pull! What do you do to get them out one at a time? Thanks!! I love love love your blog 🙂

  • Michelle Garcia

    Do you thin seedlings before potting up? I have tomatoes, onions, and carrots in the small 6 pack containers and I have no idea if they need to be thinned or not. Help! 😒

    • DeannaCat

      Hey Michelle! Yes we have usually already thinned our seedlings. Sometimes, the act of potting is when we do thin them. Or, we have trimmed them previously. It sounds like you didn’t see the seedling thinning post, which should help! Check it out here!

      • Danielle

        Great info! I have two quick questions. I started my seedlings in a 50 and 70 cell tray, so the modules aren’t very big. My tomatoes have only been growing for 3 weeks now, is that too early to pot up? They’re only about 2 inches tall but all look healthy so far. My other question is regarding the richer soil. I’ll have to keep the ones I pot up indoors still, and I know potting soil can have pests or fungus in them. Can I pot up in the starter mix still? Or is there a way to treat the richer soil before you pot up so you prevent pests inside? Neem oil?

        • DeannaCat

          Hi Danielle! If the roots are starting to poke through the bottom, I would carefully pot them up. If you want to keep using seedling mix, you could give the plants a little boost a couple weeks after by feeding them with dilute seaweed extract to keep them happy until they go outside. Or, if you do choose to pot them into potting soil and you have any issues with gnats, stick traps may help – and also avoiding over-watering. I have an article about dealing fungus gnats if needed. I hope that helps! Good luck!

  • Brooke

    As usual, this post is super helpful!

    This might be a dumb question but do bunching onions/onions need to be potted up too?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *